After a couple of controversial seasons (culturally appropriated dreadlocks anyone?) Marc Jacobs made a triumphant return to fashion week with the most-hyped about show so far.
Acknowledging the origin of his street-wear inspired collection (hip-hop FYI), it was a major step for the designer in winning back some fash squad appreciation points.
And beauty obsessives were just as chuffed. Replacing a homogenous line of identically made-up models with no less than a whopping 37 different looks, Jacobs tailored each girl's hair and make-up to suit their own style and personality.
Described as 'It depends' by backstage legend and pro make-up artist Diane Kendal, she explained the look as, 'Some girls have mascara, some don't. Some girls have got gloss on the lid, some don't. Some girls are getting mascara. Some are getting a lip. Some are getting eyeliner that's black around the waterline. Some are getting a cat eye. Some aren't getting any.'
Forget one size fits all beauty, Kendal's depends-who-sits-down-at-my-station approach is all about the individual.
It wasn't long ago that matching straight extensions and uniform bare white faces were the go-to beauty looks for most designers. So a show where models are cast and styled according to their individual personalities is a serious (if long overdue) improvement.
Using Marc Jacobs' own make-up collection for the first time ever, Kendal mixed the Undercover Coconut Face Primer with the Glow Stick Gistening Illuminator for a diffused gleam on models' skin. If a model had lipstick it was a swirl of black mixed with deep red, but equally if it didn't suit them, the lips were left bare.
The au naturale finish might not look like much, but Marc Jacobs' pared-back beauty look could well be the boldest statement of NYFW.