Getting to the bottom of a sea of skincare

Me:

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Each cream, serum and corrector is different from the next yet they all promise something equally wonderful. But if you don’t take those promises at face value – which I don’t – you need at least a few weeks to see if they actually work. So how in the name of plump skin do you know what’s what?

I hooked up with Dr. Adam Geyer, a New York derm and development consultant for Kiehl's, when he was over last week to see what he had to say:

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Me: What advice would you give someone who is overwhelmed by the choice of moisturisers out there?

Dr Geyer: Feel good about your choices and choose a product that’s right for right now. If your skin’s very dry at the moment, choose a thicker cream. When the weather warms up, you might go for a lighter gel-based moisturiser [try Chanel + Active Moisture Gel Cream, £39]. But whatever you choose, stick with it and use it up. With so many products out there, it’s easy to feel the grass is always greener, but you need to give your chosen moisturiser a chance.

Me: But every cream promises something different – wrinkle-fighting, radiance-boosting, tone-correcting…. I want all those things but can’t go layering every product on the market. How do I whittle it down?

Dr Geyer: Focus on three things in the morning and three things at night. For example, in the morning you could cleanse, apply a vitamin C-rich serum, like Kiehl’s Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate, £50, [vitamin C is a brilliant ingredient that helps lots of problems, including wrinkles and photo-ageing], then layer over a moisturiser containing SPF. Skip the toner.

Me: What if I want to target a specific problem, for example uneven skin tone?

Dr Geyer: Incorporate a targeted product in to your regime but choose one that’s multi-faceted and does more than its main function. For you, I’d recommend Kiehl’s Highly Efficient Skin-Tone Corrector, £38.50, which also has anti-wrinkle properties. Use it at night instead of a serum and follow with your favourite non-SPF moisturiser or night cream. Pick the right products and you can expect a lot.

Me: If you use a serum and a moisturiser at the same time, how do you know which one is working?

Dr Geyer: Try the de-challenge, re-challenge technique: remove one product for a couple of weeks and see if you continue to get good results. If not, reintroduce it and see what happens. If so, you can consider substituting the ‘de-challenged’ product for something else.

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