By Bella Blissett

If Diane Kendel has had a moment to eat, sleep or breathe this NYFW we'd be surprised. Having already seen her work her own brand of make up magic at Alexander Wang, Victoria Beckham and Thakoon, she was once again up and at it for the sunrise call time.

Taking sixties model, Sarah Moon as her reference, she blended up a smoky, four-tone eye with a "graduation that makes it dramatic yet still feminine and soft".

Using MAC's Industry Powerpoint pencil to define a rounded eye shape, she blended Phone Number kohl over the top. Must Have Brown - a new shade from a forthcoming MAC palette - proved to be exactly that. Sweeping it along the upper and lower lash lashes, she added a super skinny black liner at the very base - before smoking Coquette shadow up to the brow to achieve the graduated effect.

As models tumbled in bleary-eyed, Orlando Pita picked up on AW12's panelled hair trend with a slicked down centre section blow dried in place with Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray. The perfect accompaniment to Kendel's smoky eye quartet.