By Amy Lawrenson
Okay, so this look is by no means wearable but what it lacks in functionality it makes up for in creativity. Haider wanted Diana Vreeland but in a raw, modern way, said make-up artist Yadim for MAC.
The brow is meant to be a high society smug brow but when Yadim initially drew it on it looked too classic. After rifling through hairstylist Eugene Souleimans kit he decided to use hair elastic fixed with glue. Striking, non?
Wella Professionals Eugene created turbans using three wide black headbands and weaving in wefts of hair. He took inspiration from Greta Garbo and Gloria Swanson in the twenties for a chic look that balanced the oversize clothing in the collection.
The high shine theme ran through into hair where Anthony Turner was slicking hair back with a lot of LOreal Tecni.Art Glue, before securing the hair at the nape and ironing the ponytail poker straight.
The glossy hyper-real beauty balanced out the matte, earthy textures of the collection.
This make-up is what I call The Verge, said Alex Box backstage. Its a moment before something is about to happen.
Leroys character this season is a girl on the verge of becoming a woman; she has no awareness of her own beauty. Box created the look of a girl who doesnt like make-up, it was make-up that looked invisible. Mimicking the grey, mauve, taupe tones in the skin she seamlessly contoured the faces.
James Pecis referenced The Piano, creating innocent hair using Moroccanoil Root Boost dried and massaged in to create a day-old type texture before massaging Intense Hydration Cream through the mid lengths and ends to disguise the models wrecked ends from weeks of shows. The mussed-up hair was pulled into a low ponytail that sat slightly to the left, with the parting on the right.
Typical Vivienne, backstage there was a mix of references mentioned for the collection the Ashaninka Tribe, designer Charles Frederick Worth and painter Toulouse-Lautrec. Val Garland created red and blue tribal markings for some of the girls, while others were influenced by Toulouse-Lautrec with rosy pink cheeks and curly hair.
Sam McKnight created two very different hairstyles for the girls. One slick and shiny wet-looking helmets of wrapped hair, while other girls were given matte, wooly-textured curly hair. The key product for both looks? GHD hairspray.
Marian Newman showed Westwood three possible nail looks and she like them all! revealed Newman. MACs sheer Gold Opal was painted on and layered with matte top coat; the second look (and Westwoods favourite) was matte top coat mixed with white pigment for a barely there chalky look to the nail. Finally three brown eyeshadows were buffed into some girls nails before a final coat of matte.
A strong look at Gaultier this season. Redkens Guido gave 80 percent of the models a sleek topknot others were laing characters from futuristic to quaffed lady.
added last-minute shine in the line-up.
Complimenting the tough-looking hair Lloyd Simmonds gave the models a slick of black liner on the upper eyelids.