Hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, clay, niacinamide...they're the types of ingredients that make up all of our favourite skincare products, from serums to masks and moisturisers.
But what if we told you that they can also work wonders on your scalp?
The hair industry is currently taking inspiration from the skincare sphere, with face-saving brands like Drunk Elephant, Elemis and Dr Barbara Sturm, to name but a few, formulating shampoos, serums and masks with ingredients they'd usually have you slathering on your face. And with very good reason...
Why Does Your Scalp Need Skincare?
Because, even though we focus on the hair growing out of it, it's well... made of skin. ‘Like the skin elsewhere it can become clogged and dull’, says hairdresser Michael Van Clarke. ‘Even more so if an excess of harsh hair products are used. Often not designed for skin, these products seep down, build up and easily clog the hair follicles. Combined with poor diet and lack of exercise it can lead to some chronic scalp and hair conditions.’
Traditional skincare can't be used on the scalp as the skin there is sensitive in different ways, but it's important not to forget it altogether. It gets a battering from product build up, heat from styling tools and external factors like sunlight (hands up if you've burnt your scalp on holiday?).
What Can Cause Scalp Issues?
A whole host of things, some sadly out of your control.
'The scalp has an abundance of hair that can create the perfect conditions to develop issues with a build-up of oil and bacteria', says Lorraine Turvey, Member of the Institute of Trichologists. 'During hormonal changes the androgens increase the size of the sebaceous glands, producing more sebum. Things like scalp acne can be linked in some cases to an increase in free fatty acids, fizzy drinks consumption, fluid retention or working in environments that produce hot oily conditions or heavy use of cosmetics particularly on the hairline where they can build up.'
Anabel Kingsley, Consultant Trichologist & Brand President at Philip Kingsley, adds that stress, the weather, infrequent hair washing, and a poor diet can add to scalp issues. And of course, like many other ailments, some people are just more susceptible to a flaky or sensitive scalp than others.
What Types Of Scalp Products Should I Be Using?
Just like in traditional skincare, there are many different formulas and applications that can be found when it comes to taking care of your scalp. What you choose really depends on your needs, time, and preferences...
1.Scalp Shampoos
An easy place to start, a scalp shampoo should do two things: clear the build-up of products and grime on your scalp (without stripping it, like some high-street 'dandruff' shampoos are known to do) and then nourish the skin.
'It is very important to cleanse your scalp regularly to remove excess oils and dead skin cells', says Anabel. 'If you suffer from an irritated scalp, use a daily soothing anti-microbial shampoo and a daily astringent. Good ingredients to look for are Witch Hazel (an astringent), Piroctone Olamine (anti-bacterial) and Camphor (soothing).'
ELLE Edit: Scalp Shampoos
Briogeo Scalp Revival Charcoal+ Coconut Micro-Exfoliating Shampoo - £35.95
A best-seller for a reason, this gentle-but-mighty shampoo perfectly balances charcoal to cleanse and coconut oil to soothe and promote healthy growth. It someone leaves the scalp squeaky clean, but without stripping all oils. A hidden gem.
Aveda Scalp Benefits Balancing Shampoo - £20.40
If you suffer from a bit of itchyness, and bit of oiliness, and find it hard to sort both out without upsetting the other, this is the shampoo for you. Cleansing from root to tip, it's like a daily detox for your hair and scalp.
Oribe Serene Scalp Balancing Shampoo - £45.50
Oribe deliver luxury hair care like no other, and this velvety, heavenly scented shampoo is no exception. Formulated with salicylic acid to clear, pea sprout to strengthen and natural extracts of watermelon and edelweiss flower to nourish, it's a winner for clearing flakes without stripping the skin. Worth every penny.
Redken Scalp Relief Soothing Balance Shampoo - £17
If you suffer from a flaky scalp but find some anti-dandruff shampoos too harsh, you're not alone. Many simply strip away without soothing. This one from Redken harnesses their exclusive 'Calming Suspension technology' to which moisturises whilst re-balancing. Well worth the extra little bit of investment more than a high street alternative.
2. Scalp Scrubs
A scalp scrub is a great choice if you want to give a deeper cleanse of product build-up, a slough away any flakiness. Just make sure the scrub is specifically formulated for the scalp, as it will be a fine texture - anything abrasive will just cause more issues.
ELLE Edit: Scalp Scrubs
Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Happi Scalp Scrub - £30
Created with a blend of AHAs and BHAs (acids to help clear away build up on the skin's surface) this delicious smelling scrub works for all hair types, and even those with a more sensitive scalp due to the balancing marula and passionfruit oils.
Kerastase Soothing Scrub - £43
Designed for in salon use but just as good at-home (well, as good as it gets without that salon head massage), this super fine scrub comes in a lightweight gel texture which feels super soothing on the scalp. Great for those with a flaky scalp, as this will help to 'reset' it and keep it happier going forward.
OUAI Scalp & Body Scrub - £32
Not only can this be used on your body too (we love a multi-use product) but the formula also lathers up on your hair, so you don't have to use a shampoo or can just mix a bit of your favourite cleanser in with it. Leaves you feeling super soft, literally from head to toe.
Christophe Robin Cleansing Purifying Scrub with Sea Salt - £40 for 250ml
Enriched with sea salt to naturally exfoliate and detoxify, this is particularly good for oily or sensitive scalps. It's also great to use after you've had your hair coloured, to help remove chemicals left over, without worry of stripping the colour.
3. Scalp Serums
Just like a serum you'd use on your face, scalp serums are packed with problem-fighting ingredients that will boost scalp health. Choose the right one for your skin-type, whether that be clarifying, hydrating or healing.
ELLE Edit: Scalp Serums
Dr Barbara Sturm Scalp Serum - £80
Skincare expert to the stars Dr Sturm recently took her expertise past the forehead with this skin/hair care hybrid serum. Enriched with hyaluronic acid, think of it as your last evening step, massaging into the scalp before you go to bed to promote a healthy head of hair, starting from the point of growth.
Ameliorate Transforming Scalp Serum - £20
Well-known for their itchy skin soothing solutions, Ameliorate harness the same AHA based formula for this scalp serum. No bells and whistles here (it's fragrance free and not the prettiest of packages) it just does what it says on the tin, transforming tricky scalps.
Sisley Hair Rituel Revitilizing Fortifying Serum - £135
The epitome of luxury hair care, Sisley came into the hair care market all guns blazing, with decadent shampoos and mane-changing conditioners. They've used their giant catalogue of skincare science to formulate this scalp serum, which works to protect and strengthen hair. Anyone with fine hair, start saving.
Kérastase Genesis Serum Anti-Chute Fortifiant - £49
The scalp isn't all about dandruff or oiliness - it's also where hair strength starts. Kerastase formulated an entire new line to tackle hair fall-out, including this serum, which works to increase the resilience of every single strand from the point of growth. Simply massage into washed hair, no need to rinse out.
4. Scalp Oils & Treatments
Putting oil on your scalp might sound scary (especially if you battle with grease), but the right formula could actually counteract over-active sebum production, and encourage healthy hair growth by starting at the follicle. A treatment will give similar targeted results, leading to healthier hair from root to tip.
ELLE Edit: Scalp Oils & Treatments
Fable & Mane Hair Oil - £25
Hailed by some as a 'miracle product', this is said to banish a flaky scalp in just one use. The idea of putting a very oily oil on your hair may scare you, but a thorough rinse (it goes on dry hair, happily) will sort that right out.
Philip Kingsley Scalp Toner For Flaky & Itchy Scalps - £22 for 250ml
Developed by Trichologist Anabel Kingsley, this targets stubborn dandruff by immediately soothing but formulate to continue working to heal and cure the cause of the flakes. A good option if you have a favourite shampoo and conditioner you want to stick with, as this can just be added on afterwards.
Living Proof Restore Dry Scalp Treatment - £25
Lightweight so it won't add greasiness or stickiness, this post-cleanse treatment helps to stop that itchiness that can occur on irritated scalps. If you've found that a change in temperature or environment has cause a scratch-inducing flare up, reach for this.
Cantu Shea Butter Tea Tree & Jojoba Hair & Scalp Oil - £7.99
If you know your skincare ingredients, you'll be able to guess what this will do for you: the tea tree will clear and clean build up, and the jojoba will add a punch of moisture back into the skin. A brilliant high-street offering, especially for oilier hair types.
5. Scalp Masks
Sometimes it's nice to give your scalp an extra bit of TLC with a mask. 'I suggest you use a twice-weekly targeted scalp mask', says Kingsley, 'preferably containing salicylic, lactic and hyaluronic acid which work together to exfoliate, cleanse and soothe.'
ELLE Edit: Scalp Masks
Elemis Frangipani Monoi Hair & Scalp Mask - £33
Our favourite thing about this mask is what it does to the scalp and hair - it's nourishing, softening, and smoothing. A close second is that you can wear it overnight (just whack a shower cap on), as it simply goes on dry air. Plus if you've ever smelt anything from Elemis' frangipani range you'll know the scent is tropical, summer, heaven. A proper, self-care treat.
Aesop Rose Hair & Scalp Moisturising Masque - £25
Packed with hydrating botanicals like rose, grapefruit seed and lavendar, this vegan mask hydrates an itchy, dry scalp without adding greasiness. Perfect for those looking for a quick fix that doubles as a luxury at-home treatment.
Grow Gorgeous Intense Thickening Hair and Scalp Mask - £25
Especially good for those with thin hair, this soothes the scalp and promotes healthy hair growth with it's amino acid filled formula. Oat lipids pack a nourishing punch too.
Omorovicza Revitalising Scalp Mask - £57
Yes this is on the luxury end of the scale, especially when it comes to hair care, but Omorovicza really know what they're doing when it comes to skincare so we'll trust them with our scalps too. This pre-shampoo mask (our favourite, as you apply on dry hair so don't have to double-shower) detoxifies and revitalises to promote healthier hair growth.
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