We took the ten most frequently asked, then consulted some of the leading international hair stylists and colourists to bring you ten definitive answers. Here’s exactly what you wanted to know:
The eyes have it
Q: What are the hair colour rules when it comes to eye colour and skin tone? I’m desperate for a colour change
A: Broadly speaking, green or brown eyes and a creamy or olive complexion suit creamy, honeyed, chestnut tones, while lighter eyes and paler skins tend to suit ashy, beige shades, says Sibi Bolan, head colourist at Daniel Hersheson.
‘The further you go away from your natural colour, the less likely it is to suit you unless you are one of those rare people, like Linda Evangelista or Gwen Stefani, who can take pretty much anything.’
‘Dramatically lightening very dark hair can bring out yellow tones which are not great if you also have pale skin,’ adds Trevor Sorbie. ‘While dark hair can wash you out if you have light eyes and are naturally fair. Changing your colour very slowly one way of moving from one look to another without ending with a colour you hate.’
Spend or splurge?
Q: Are in-salon treatments worth the money?
A: High-tech treatments applied professionally can make a real difference to the condition of your hair, so yes.
‘You also can’t beat an expert opinion as to what hair treatments you should be having in the first place – not to mention what you should be using at home to keep hair healthy,’ says Aveda stylist Michael Landon. ‘Some in-salon treatments consist of powerful formulas that you wouldn’t, and shouldn’t, be able to get on the high street,’ he adds, ‘but they penetrate deep in to the hair shaft and are often the difference between having to cut the damaged hair off. It’s like that old saying – a stitch in time saves nine. A treatment now and again can save you money on cuts and products in the long run.’
The truth about washing
Q: I read you should wash your hair as little as possible… is this true?
A: ‘Not washing your hair or letting it “cleanse itself” is nonsense,’ says trichologist Phillip Kingsley. ‘You take your hair to the same places you take your face, and you know how dirty your face gets after a day.’
What’s more, modern formulations are mild enough to use every day while still being effective – though most experts we spoke to agree that alternating your shampoo every day is a good way to avoid build-up and also allows you to service your hair’s different needs, such as moisture, colour-enhancement and volume.
How you wash is as important as how often, so make sure you’re cleansing correctly. ‘Hair should be soaked through and rinsed for about 30 seconds before shampooing,’ says Kingsley, ‘and you shouldn’t need more than a 2p-sized dollop. Massage – don’t rub – and rinse with a vengeance. Hair should literally be squeaky clean. Apply conditioner from mid-length to ends only and, again, rinse like mad.’
How to grow hair
Q: Is it possible to make my hair grow any quicker?
A: Outside of Hogwarts, no. ‘While there’s little you can do to make your hair grow faster, a healthy diet is key as impaired skin and hair quality has often been reported in nutritional deficiency situations,’ says Ursula Arens from the British Dietetic Association. ‘For example, low levels of vitamin B can lead to a change in colour and texture, while not enough fatty acids in your diet may lead to dry, brittle hair. Make sure your diet includes plenty of fruit and veg, protein, oily fish and fluids. If in doubt, a good multivitamin tablet could help.’
You should get your hair trimmed regularly, too. Leaving it too long can mean split ends become split hair shafts and you could end up having to lose several precious inches when you’re trying to add them.
Brighten up
Q: Can I brighten my blonde highlights without visiting my hairdresser?
A: In a word, yes. Opt for colour-enhancing shampoos and conditioners such as Go Blonder, £5.49 each, by John Frieda (020 7851 9800). ‘Many of these products contain blue and violet pigments that neutralise yellow and warm tones boosting the hairs natural shine and keeping your highlighted locks fresher for longer,’ says Lisa Shepherd. Matthew Soobroy, senior salon manager at Charles Worthington, also has this neat trick: ‘Add a drop of lemon juice to your shampoo as this will help strip the duller layers of the colour so it will appear brighter,’ he says.
Bangs to right
Q: How can I grow out my fringe with the least amount of pain and frustration?
A: Use it as an excuse to get creative with your hair, says session stylist Kevin Murphy. ‘A long fringe is the perfect opportunity to experiment with side partings, feminine quaffs, twists, plaits and all the amazing hair accessories that are around right now.’
To make it more bearable, ask your hairdresser to blend your fringe in to the rest of your hair, says George Northwood. ‘This normally involves lightly thinning out the ends and pushing it to the sides. The fringe acts more like layers then, and is easier to incorporate in to your usual style.’
For fringes that still aren’t past your brows, try an instant fringe-shortening effect by rolling the fringe under with tongs or a round brush. It’s only temporary but at least it keeps it out of your eyes for a day or two.
Roll like a pro
Q: I just bought some Velcro rollers, but have no idea how to use them. Also, what’s the difference between rollers and curling tongs?
A: Rollers are great way to achieve a ‘big hair’ look because they give lift and movement at the root, says leading session stylist Sam McKnight. ‘Large ones help smooth the hair, while smaller ones will give you soft waves. Tongs are great if you want to create curls or waves through the lengths of you hair, but you won’t give you lift at the roots.’
To get the most out of your rollers, start by applying a mousse or styling gel spray to damp hair, concentrating at the roots, then roughly blow it dry. Starting at the crown, take two-inch sections of hair, douse with hair spray, then wrap the end of your section around the roller. ‘Continue rolling the hair down and secure with a hair clip or pin. The sides of your head should ideally have two rollers in front of the ear and three behind,’ says McKnight.
To make sure hair retains its volume, dry each roll on slow speed, high heat, then leave for around ten minutes to cool. Tipping your head upside down, take out the rollers and brush out hair. Spray all over with hairspray, throw your head back and admire the extra oomph.
Plump up the volume
Q: Is there an easy way to get my thin, limp hair to look fuller and sleeker?
A: ‘A well-known industry trick for fuss-free volume in seconds is using a dry shampoo like Batiste,’ says Lisa Shepherd, hairstylist on 10 Years Younger. ‘Spray it on at the roots, leave it for a minute, tip your head upside down and give your hair a good shake, or brush it through,’ she says. Alternatively, take your cue from this season’s catwalks and use lots of mousse – think tennis-ball size – through roots and ends of hair.
In-salon treatments are also worth the money. The Kerastase Plumping Ritual costs only £10 and makes hair look and feel considerably thicker for at least two washes. Great for reviving limp hair in a hurry. Click here to find you nearest salon.
For a longer-term solution, get a good cut and style, ‘it can make all the difference,’ says Global Creative Director of Mahogany Salons Richard Thompson. ‘Go for something really sharp without too many layers and you can have it all – sleek, smooth hair that looks thick, too.’ Or try a few well-placed extensions: ‘Having weight at the front gives the impression of fuller, thicker hair and extensions are great for this,’ says Creative Director of Daniel Hersheson George Northwood.
Pass on the brass
Q: I’m bored of my dark brown hair. I’d love to go lighter, but am afraid of ending up with brassy stripes or hair the colour of straw.
A: Because straw only looks good on a stable floor, going from dark to blonde needs a ‘softly softly’ approach, says senior colourist at John Frieda Phillipa Locke. ‘Going from dark to light should be a gradual process, and you’ll need to visit your salon for an in-depth consultation, so you and your stylist can work together to find the right “bespoke” blonde for you.’
‘Consider lifting your natural colour with tinted highlights rather than ones containing bleach,’ says leading hair authority Trevor Sorbie. ‘It’s bleach that makes colour go brassy – and it’s not exactly kind to the condition of your hair. Ask for caramel, toffee and beige tones – and take current pictures of Mischa Barton and Jessica Alba with you as reference as they’re both good examples of hair that has been lightened significantly without any brassiness.’
You could also try the ‘high lift tint’ at Daniel Galvin. ‘It infuses hair with an intensive blue tint that kills any orange or red pigment, meaning hair can be taken shades lighter with very little bleach,’ says Galvin Jnr.
Baliage is another method of lightening hair that’s having a bit of a moment right now. ‘It focuses on lightening the ends of hair – a bit like reverse highlights – giving a natural, sun-kissed look that’s very fresh,’ says head colourist at Daniel Hersheson Sibi Bolan, who calls her version of the technique Up-lighting. It’s what she uses on clients Alexa Chung and Rosie Huntington-Whitely.
Get in a tousle
Q: My ‘blah’ straight hair is just begging for some texture and volume. How do I get that perfect tousled look?
A: Textured, matte hair is big news this season, with hair taking on an earthy look and feel, and a range of textures. But, as leading backstage stylist Eugene Souleiman, Wella Professionals Creative Director of Style, who perfected the look at Missoni and Etro, can testify, it takes more than a rockin’ night in bed to get the look. As catwalk looks go, though, it’s pretty easy to achieve: ‘Blow the hair out, using a little product at the roots to add a bend to the hair,’ he says, ‘then twist it very loosely into a bun, and pin on top of your head. Spritz the bun with a little salt spray and dry with a diffuser for about five minutes. Let hair cool down for a further five, then shake it out, massaging the roots for a little extra uplift.’ To get the super-matte, ‘cavewoman-meets-couture’ look, here’s a neat trick courtesy of hair legend Errol Douglas. ‘Dust roots with a tiny sprinkling of baby powder – it gives instant texture and volume,’ he says.
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