Retinol: The Key to Perfect Skin

Retinoids such as Retinoic Acid, Retinol and Pro-Retinol have been touted, in recent years, as wonder ingredients. Retinoids are all forms of Vitamin A and can treat a whole host of skin conditions. They stimulate collagen, which keeps skin plump and glowing; increase cell turnover, preventing spots and dry, flaky patches; and increase the thickness of the skin, making it the perfect choice for older complexions.
Retinoic Acid (or Retinol A) is only available via prescription, through a dermatologist, to treat serious skin complaints, while Retinol and Pro-Retinol is available in lower doses in over-the-counter skincare products.
‘The higher the percentage in over-the-counter products, the better they will work’ explains Dr Mario Russo, ‘but be warned you should start off using these products on alternative days as retinol can irritate the skin. Your skin needs to adjust and go through - what the experts call - Retinisation’.
ELLE’s tip: Vitamin A can make skin more sensitive to the sun, make sure your layer up with a high factor face cream every morning.

Retinol molecules can irritate the skin causing dry patches and redness. The best way to avoid this is to look for products with a more sophisticated delivery system. Dove Spa’s Rejuvenating Serum contains encapsulated retinol, which delivers the encased retinol through the epidermis without coming into contact, which is when irritation can occur. Once the retinol is into the lower layers of the skin it is released and sets to work. This is a course of serum which is to be used when your skin needs a boost, the four tubes last a month and the serum should be applied at night under your usual moisturiser. It is ideal if your skin needs a boost.

Recharge Intensive Rejuvenating Serum, £47 by Dove Spa

Dr Mario Russo name checked Roc as one of the brands that really makes a difference. The new Wrinkle Correxion range claims to contain ‘the purest and most effective form of Retinol’ which penetrates the skin ‘more effectively than derivatives like Pro-Retinol’. The result? Skin cells renew faster for a fresher look to the complexion, plus hyaluronic acid plumps out the skin too. The Daily Moisturiser, £26.99, works a treat - just remember to layer over with a high SPF, as Vitamin A can make skin more susceptible to sun damage.

Retin-Ox Wrinkle Correxion Daily Moisturiser, £20.99 by Roc

Dr Mario Luca Russo founder of The Rejuvenation Clinic, W1. Enq: 0207 323 9012.

If you are worried about sun damage from using products containing high doses of Vitamin A, it is worth using a night time product instead. Perricone MD’s Evening Repair is our top pick. Containing high levels of Alpha Lipoic Acid, an antioxidant, DMAE, an antioxidant ingredient found in oily fish, known to tighten wrinkles, and ‘the highest levels of retinol available over-the-counter’ this cream will target problem skin threefold. Used consistently, it will minimise all manner of skin ills including enlarged pores, wrinkles, dull skin and imperfections. The only downside, it smells a bit fishy, so make sure to wash it off thoroughly before stepping out in the morning.

High Potency Evening Repair, £80, by Perricone MD

Not just brightening and wrinkle reducing, Retinol is also a key ingredient in the fight against acne. MD Formulations is a brand synonymous with science, using ramped up ingredients such as Glycolic Acid and Retinols to ensure their products work. We are already big fans of the Facial Cleanser with Glycolic, £18, so we were pleased to discover the Retinol packed VitAPlus Clearing Complex Masque, £24.50, also works well on spots. It smells reassuringly medicinal and feels tingly, without being overpowering. The Retinol works to reduce oily shine which is one of the key ingredients to cause spot build up, plus it diminishes pore size too. Plus, anti-bacterial rosemary extract helps prevent new spots forming. Skin looks clearer and more even in no time.

Vit A Plus Clearing Complex Masque, £24.50 by MD Formulations at HQ Hair

Hyaluronic Acid and Retinol seem to be a winning combination. Like Roc, Vichy’s Liftactiv range champions both as key ingredients. The Vichy products include Retinol+A which is Retinol and Adenosine, the added ingredient helps accelerate the effects of the Retinol – increasing cell turnover at a quicker rate. Lines caused by dehydration are immediately plumped, and over time we noticed that more permanent wrinkles seemed less visible. The SPF 18 is a great bonus too. The cream is rich, smells great and there is even a ‘3-minute wrinkle massage’ you can follow for better, faster results. Be warned though, the airtight packaging makes application a little tricky – on first attempt the cream shot across the room – handle with care. Also, try the Eye Cream, £20, if fine lines in that area are a concern for you.

Liftactiv Retinol HA Total Anti-Wrinkle Renovating Care, £27, by Vichy