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After a season experimenting with bold rainbow shades lip colour returns to its primary roots this winter with slashes of scarlet making an appearance at shows such as Giles , Gucci and Diane von Furstenberg . ‘We’re doing a strict Victorian governess look so it’s about a precise, defined shape and a flash of the reddest red’ said Lucia Pieroni at Giles.
Red Lips
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Liner was used to graphic effect this season, if it wasn’t coquettish whips at D&G it was edgy, modern etchings at Anna Sui , Costume National and DKNY . ‘It’s a nod to the 60s but elevating the lines up into the socket crease ensure it stays modern and interesting’ says Sally Branka at Costume National.
Graphic Liner
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Although metallics are back they were used to a much softer effect. Gone was the eye-watering bling of past seasons, instead murky pewter, tarnished violet and dirty ice blue were shades of choice at Christopher Kane and Narciso Rodriguez . ‘It’s a very cool, cold palette with the emphasis on shading and tonality to add depth’ says Val Garland at Mary Katrantzou .
Muted Metals
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Spiky, spidery lashes are the new beauty accessory for a/w. While Pat McGrath waved her magic (mascara) wand at Lanvin , Versace and Valentino to create separated, cloggy lashes, Charlotte Tilbury did the same at Chloe for a full-on flirty flutter. ‘Use your brush to pull out even the corner lashes to ensure you coat every single hair’ says Tilbury at Chloe.
Lashes -
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Blush isn’t new but the way you wear it is. From low daubs of colour at Marc Jacobs to creamy flushes on the apples of your cheeks at Versace and suntanned strips of bronze across noses at Marc by Marc Jacobs , application is key. ‘Use a cream blush and blend into skin with your finger tips until you have a soft, from-within glow’ says Pat McGrath at Versace.
Blush -
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It seems the fash pack’s penchant for bleached brows has passed for now, as we saw a return to full, handsome brows. At Chloe , Jean Paul Gaultier and Acne they were filled in and groomed to add structure and definition to faces. ‘Keep brows square on top and straight across with only a slight, natural arch to keep them looking as boyish as possible’ says Lucia Pieroni at Acne.
Brows
Fans of simple, chic beauty can rejoice this season as faces take on a Mad Men inspired hint of glamour. Statement lips, flicks of liner and pops of rouge punctuated clean, polished skin for a look that oozed understated sex appeal and sophistication.
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