Technically, the beauty for Anna Sui's show—a darkly decadent heap of glossy velvet and lamé layers—was based on '40s photos.

"It's coming from Elsa Schiaperelli's old parties, the ones with circus themes and crazy eccentrics," said Garren the hair guru, name-checking duchess Wallis Simpson and designer Elsie de Wolfe. "So we're doing the '40s in a new way, with severe side parts for short hair, and a kind of 'Mickey Mouse twirl' for long hair. In the '40s, [the hair] would be rolled, but we want to keep the natural texture instead."

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That meant models like Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner got puff pigtails on top, and beach waves underneath—a style that may have '40s roots, but also riffs on Britney Spears, Gwen Stefani, Baby Spice, and the Limited Too catalog circa 1996. Do it yourself with R+Co's Outer Space Spray for the puffs, and Sail Soft Wave Spray for the loose hair underneath.

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For makeup, Pat McGrath's eschewed contouring ("Anna [Sui]'s not really into a heavy brow," she explained). Instead, she paired a deep burgundy lip with blue glittery eyes, because—she winked—"it'll be all about the blue, won't it?"

We expect to see a cobalt shade on PatMcGrath.com soon... at least, until it sells out in five seconds.

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From: ELLE US