AW16 Emerging Trend: Milan's Matter Than Matte Mouths

From Prada to Marni and more

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We can always count on the Italian capital of style to conjure up some colour in the make-up department, and for AW16 it's all about the unabashedly bold lip in a variety of red hues.

We've seen everything from cherry red at Prada to moody maroon at Marni and several in-between. The one thing linking them all together? They’re all totally matte.

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At Marni, backstage make-up maestro, Tom Pecheux created 'movie star mouths' using in a deep prune, maroon shade. 'Firstly, I'm applying lip balm to moisturise and then I'm completely taking it off to make sure there's no sheen left,' he explained. Tom then lined the entire lip with Mac Lip Pencil in NightMoth, which gave a full coverage matte finish.

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At Prada, make-up legend Pat McGrath mixed three different shades of red together to create this 'rich, matte colour with lots of dimension.' As for the colour of choice? 'Red is a symbol of bravery and strength,' explained Pat, 'you can’t get more independent than a red lip.’

Over to Antonio Marras, where Tom worked his magic again to create ‘kiss of death lips’, which were black on the centre, oxblood red all over and outlined with silver highlighter. To get the velvety matte finish, Tom applied Mac Retro Matte Liquid Lip Colour in High Drama then patted a dry eyeshadow over the top to add depth.

The same Retro Matte colour was used at Marco de Vincenzo over the top of Mac Lip Liner in Chestnut, to create a ‘conker’ colour. ‘This lip is has a rich, velvety texture that almost looks airbrushed,’ Terry Barber told us.

What makes this wave of matte mouths so fresh, cool and sophisticated is the lack of make-up elsewhere on the face. ‘It’s important to keep the rest of the make-up as simple as possible as not to compete with the statement lip,’ Pat explained. ‘Pin-pointing the colour to one element and leaving the rest of the face natural is a way of retaining the glamour of the look, without moving into OTT territory,’ adds Terry.

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