If your quest for flawless skin is often thwarted by an army of blackheads that just won't let up, no matter how hard you squeeze (FYI, don't do that), you are not alone.
Turns out, we're all pretty obsessed with blackheads. The most prevalent of the pimple family, no one is immune to these complexion pests, and yet there's so much bad advice out there when it comes to getting rid of them.
Rip them out with a pore strip! Extract them, Dr. Pimple Popper-style with a sharp lance! Do something aggressive with dental floss! There's an obscure blackhead removal hack lurking in every corner of the internet, should you wish to seek them – but rest assured that every time you try one, a dermatologist somewhere begins to cry.
So, is there anything we can do to get rid of blackheads without sabotaging our skin health? Of course – in fact, options abound. Here, we divulge the the sensible, expert-approved ways to keep your nose and chin pleasingly clear – no health warnings required.
What exactly are blackheads?
When it comes to eradicating blackheads, your first move should be to know your enemy. Simply put, blackheads are a mixture of oil and dead skin that has settled into a pore and oxidised, which is what creates the black appearance.
According to skincare expert and founder of Paula's Choice, Paula Begoun, blackheads occur 'when too much oil is produced inside the pore, making it difficult for the oil to flow to the surface.'
That may sound a little grim, but you'd be wrong to think that blackheads are a result of unclean skin. In fact, it's a common misconception that a complexion featuring a family of blackheads is unclean.
Hormones are the key culprit behind excess oil production, so while it might be near-impossible to stop blackheads developing all together, you can take some simple steps to remove them. Read on for the details...
The best ways to get rid of blackheads
1. Upgrade your exfoliator
It's ok that we spent our teenage years scrubbing a certain fruit kernel into our noses, but now we know better. Instead of a physical scrub, which will likely only irritate delicate skin, an acid-based exfoliator is perfectly equipped to dissolve away oil, grime and, yes, blackheads.
Look for a product that contains an alpha-hydroxy-acid – such as glycolic or its gentler sister, lactic – which will help to chemically slough away lingering dead skin cells, preventing congestion from occurring in the first place .
Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel
Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel
2. Try salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is another great ally in the fight against blackheads. While alpha-hydroxy-acids work on the surface of the skin, exfoliating dead skin cells and surface grime, salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy-acid, meaning it has the power to penetrate your pores and dissolve oil from within.
'Exfoliating with a leave-on treatment that contains salicylic acid is a game-changer,' says Begoun. 'It gets rid of dull cells but doesn't strip the skin's essential oils.'
Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
3. Change your cleanser
According to Dr. Anita Sturnham, a GP specialising in dermatology and founder of Decree, your daily cleanser could, ironically, be contributing to the development of blackheads. She advises to 'strip back on pore-clogging cleansing balms, as well as facial oils. Anything that causes clogging needs to go in the ‘skin bin’ as I call it!'
Instead, call on a milk, gel or clay cleanser that'll help to sweep away the day's grime without leaving behind a residue on the skin surface. You can go functional and affordable – Cerave always wins in this department – or opt for something a little more luxurious to help ease you away from that spa-scented cleansing balm. Decree's clay-based Deep Cleanse combines a delicious scent with a rich texture, and contains a combination of lactic and salicylic acids.
4. Switch your moisturiser
We know the drill: peer closely into that magnifying mirror, spot a cluster of teeny-tiny spots and instantly ditch the moisturiser. While it might seem counterintuitive, skin blighted by blackheads still needs moisture, so please get that jar back out from the back of the bathroom cupboard.
With that in mind, your choice of moisturiser is crucial. Begoun mentions that heavy, creamy or especially occlusive products can make blackheads worse by blocking pores.
Instead, choose a lighter, milkier cream – preferably one that contains niacinamide, as it has the ability to regulate oil production.
The Nue Co Barrier Culture Moisturizer
5. Make time for a mask
Not just a pampering treat, a good face mask should act as an SOS saviour for skin that needs some close attention – be it dryness, dehydration, dullness or even blackheads.
A clay face mask is best suited to your pimple problem. It's simple, really: the clay works to physically absorb the excess oil that leads to blackheads, leaving skin clearer and calmer. Clay is a simple ingredient, so there's little need to blow the budget on a mask: instead, save it for your serum and moisturiser.
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Clay Mask
6. Consider retinol
If your blackheads seem to stubbornly reappear no matter how frequently you treat them, incorporating a retinol product into your routine could be beneficial in the long term.
In short, retinols work by increasing the rate at which your cells rejuvenate and turn over, decreasing the chance of oil and grime building up on the surface and leaving pores less susceptible to clogging.
Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1 Serum
Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1 Serum
7. Consult the experts
If you've entrusted Google to tell you exactly 'how to get rid of blackheads', you've likely seen the wealth of pore-vacuuming devices out there that promise to do the job for you – but do these facial tools really work?
Actually, the experts warn against becoming your own at-home facialist, especially when it involves suction-based tech.
'I see so many issues of worsening breakouts and even post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after a using these tools,' says Dr. Sturnham. 'Blackheads do not respond well to these home-use devices and treatment is best left to a specialist where they can do some in-clinic treatments to clarify the skin.'
The primary risk with pore vacuums is that they can inflame the skin surrounding the pore, even causing capillary walls to break, which will leave you with redness on the surface.
So, if you're looking for a speedy treatment for your blackheads, it's best to book a professional appointment. 'A combination of a gentle peels, extraction and LED light can work well and your doctor may also add in a prescription for you to use at home, such as a topical retinoid,' explains Dr. Sturnham. 'Choices include Adapalene (known as Differin) or Epiduo, which is Adapalene combined with benzoyl peroxide.'
8. Stop squeezing
As therapeutic as it might be, the experts all agree that squeezing blackheads – any spots, for that matter – will do more harm than good. You risk causing inflammation, tearing your pore walls, and spreading bacteria to the surrounding tissue, which could cause bigger breakouts elsewhere on the face. You have been warned.
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