Whether you’ve tackled your acne once and for all, or you're still going through the long-winded battle, there is one thing that’s inevitable: acne scarring. It doesn’t matter if you’re a picker or leave them well enough alone, there’s still a dark mark left behind every spot.
'One common mistake I have seen acne patients make is to start treating the acne scarring while still suffering with active breakouts. Before even thinking about treating potential acne scarring, all active acne lesions must be completely cleared', explains Dr Stefanie Williams, dermatologist and medical director of EUDELO Dermatology & Skin Wellbeing.
We’ve all been through the trials and tribulations of experimenting with what works to get skin clear and even. A natural reaction may be to reach for a rough scrub to brush the spots away but an abrasive take often leaves skin angry and red - not ideal. Don’t even get us started on the toothpaste myth.
Don’t fret, there are some treatments that actually work to fade and eventually get rid of the traces of acne that don't involve any fluffy facials you might experience in spas. 'A very useful adjunct for any acne sufferer is a dermatology grade facial,' says Dr Williams. 'Dermatology grade facials are totally different from beauty facials in salons and spas though, which anyone with a tendency to breakouts should avoid, as they often cause an acne flare up.'
How To Get Rid Of Acne Scars
Acne Scar Treatment No.1: Dermal Fillers
Not just here to make you look like a contestant on Love Island, fillers can be used to help an array of skin problems, one of them being acne scars. A tiny amount can temporarily plump and smooth over any skin craters left behind from acne.
'Dermal fillers are very good for indented scars', says Dr. Anjali Mahto, Consultant Dermatologist and British Skin Foundation Spokesperson. 'However, depending on the type of filler used, the treatment will need to be repeated at regular intervals - most probably every six months - to maintain the results.'
Your skin's initial reaction may be to bruise, swell up and go red but be patient and wait for the magic to happen. As acne scarring treatments go, this one isn’t the priciest and is relatively non invasive and pain free. Hooray!
To find your nearest cosmetic dermatologist, head to the British Association of Dermatologists.
Acne Scar Treatment No.2: Exo Needling
Microneedling on it's own isn't effective enough to get rid of acne scarring but combining it into a treatment does do the trick.
'Exo Needling is a combination of deep microneedling with simultaneous Exo infusion. Exo is a serum exceptionally high in growth factors, derived from the patient’s own blood (an advancement of the more well-known PRP (Platelet-Rich Plasma)', explains Dr Williams.
Might sound a bit Twilight-esque but PRP works to promote collagen and elastin production, key players in keeping skin it's glow-y best self.
Acne Scar Treatment No.3: Chemical Peels
Whenever chemical peels are mentioned, an image of Samantha from Sex And The City turning up to Carrie’s book launch party with red raw skin and a black veil immediately comes to mind. But, peels have come a long way since then and, thankfully, veils are no longer required.
The best update? You can now use them (at a lower dosage) in your own bathroom. AHAs and BHAs have become a staple in most skin lovers routines because they tackle an array of issues. From whiteheads to blackheads, acids are a top problem solver if you choose the right one.
Glycolic acid is the most popular when it comes to AHAs. It’s the most potent when it comes to exfoliating, which means it’s incredibly efficient but can be too strong for sensitive skin types.
Lactic acid actually comes from lactose in milk, rather than fruit acids like other AHAs which means it’s particularly effective when it comes to erasing signs of ageing.
When it comes to BHAs, salicylic acid is the most commonly used. Good news for sensitive skin sufferers, this one's for you. It helps calm down redness and inflammation, which also makes it super useful when it comes to getting rid of any blemishes.
ELLE Edit: At-Home Face Peels
Kate Somerville KateCeuticals Resurfacing Overnight Peel
When it comes to facial peels, you can guarantee that Kate Somerville knows what she's doing. This overnight peel packs some serious resurfacing ingredients including retinol and glycolic acid to speed up skin cell turnover and bring forth your best skin.
With a powerhouse of 10% lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and pro-vitamin B5, you'll be hard-pushed to find a gentle peel targets dull and uneven skin so effortlessly.
If you're not a fan of overnight peels, this glycolic scrub-and-mask only requires you to leave it on for ten minutes before unveiling a bright new complexion with pores looking visibly minimised.
You'll be hard pressed to find a Beauty Editor who doesn't love Dr Dennis' peel pads. Easy to use, and with a range of strengths for all skin types, they provide a thorough yet foolproof way to fresh, soft skin. Our favourite? These 'glow' version, which also add a hint of bronzy tan to your complexion. Genius.
Elemis Papaya Enzyme Peel
Natural and gentle, so better if you've got a more sensitive skin type, the fruit enzymes nibble away at dead skin revealing a smoother, brighter complexion after use. Simple to use, it's a great option for beginners who are nervous of more aggressive formulas.
You've probably seen this Vampire-esque solution all over Instagram: a garnet red mask looking like the wearer has had a horrible accident. But don't be put off by the colour, the blend of AHA and BHA exfoliants can - used correctly (it is a potent strength but not an unsafe level) - do wonders, especially on oily skin types. Use once a weekly to help keep blemishes and dullness at bay.
Harnessing the gentle buffing properties of fruit enzymes to eat away at surface-level dead skin, this peel offers a gentle alternative to stronger exfoliators that might cause irritation to sensitive skin types.
Murad Replenishing Multi-Acid Peel
Easy to use (just shake it to mix the bi-phase formula, sweep on with a cotton pad at night: simples), this AHA/BHA blend is formulated to accelerate cell renewal, and is proven to speed it up by 33%. Which means brighter skin, plumper skin, and even reduced scarring and lines.
Created by former laser and wound-healing specialist (aka expert at healing and rebooting skin) Dr Phillip Levy, this product is the perfect balance of effective and fortifying. Leave on for a few minutes and rinse off, then expect some light peeling a couple of days later. No redness, no stinging, just baby-soft skin.
Acne Scar Treatment No.4: Radiofrequency With Microneedling Treatment
This powerful combination is designed to rebuild collagen and elastin using pulses of light energy from radio waves with microscopic needles that gentle puncture skin to help fill the indentation acne scars tend to leave behind.
The idea is to leave skin looking brighter and firmer with scars looking smaller and lighter in colour, whilst skin texture is left touchably smoother.
Unlike with IPL, this can work no matter what your skin tone and has minimal downtime, with redness only sticking around for an hour or two after.
Acne Scar Treatment No.5: Retinol
Also known as vitamin A, retinol goes hand in hand with anti-ageing treatments but can also be used to unclog pores and fade scars. It’s a more gradual treatment but is popular for leaving skin looking brighter and smoother.
Associate Professor of Clinical Dermatology at USC, Keck School of Medicine, Dr Nada Elbuluk explains the benefits: 'Many darker skin patients who develop dark spots also known as hyperpigmentation, may refer to them as "scars". For others, acne scars can refer to textural changes in the skin such as indentations and uneven skin texture. If it's the former, then we often treat with products such as retinoids which can help with evening out skin tone and treating acne. If it's more of a textural change, retinoids can also help but typically a resurfacing treatment is also needed'.
Avoid if you have rosacea - it can upset and irritate.
Do try bakuchiol - it's a natural alternative rich in vitamin C and E that works to provide the same brightening results.
ELLE Edit: Retinols for Acne
Kiehl's Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum
Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair with Buffer Cream
Acne Scar Treatment No.6: IPL Laser
If it’s good enough for Kendall Jenner, it’s good enough for us. The reality star admitted that laser treatments did wonders for her skin when she was scrutinised by the public for suffering from acne. IPL lasers are non-invasive and extremely gentle to skin, so it’s the perfect lunch time treatment.
'Not just for hair removal, IPL lasers have a fantastic anti-inflammatory role and can take action against the bacteria that cases acne,' says Dr. Mahto, 'but they also work well to reduce redness and skin staining. Just be prepared to undergo multiple sessions and maintenance treatments for good results.'
The problem with most lasers are that they work better on paler skin due to pigments, so won’t be your best bet for darker skin tones.
Acne Scar Treatment No 7: Wear SPF
It might seem like the simplest way to get rid of acne scars and we bang on about it a lot but SPF really does solve all your skin troubles. Not only does it protect against the dreaded sun damage but it helps avoid the more long term risk of skin cancer and, in turn, the marks it can leave on your skin.
But SPF is never more crucial than when you’re using acids, retinol or extensive treatments that can leave your skin vulnerable. 'The skin is more vulnerable to damage and pigmentation change following acne treatments such as IPL laser and even using products that contain AHAs (like glycolic and lactic acid) and BHAs (including salicylic acid, found in acne moisturisers and cleansers) and pigmentation spots can potentially get worse is SPF is not applied,' says Dr. Mahto.
So SPF up ASAP.
ELLE Edit: SPF for Acne Prone Skin
The Ordinary Mineral UV Filters SPF 15
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Anti-Shine Sun Cream Gel SPF50+
Ultra Violette Lean Screen Mineral Mattifying SPF 50+
Acne Scar Treatment No.8: Skincare with Niacinamide
Niacinamide is the magical treatment can tackle everything from wrinkles, acne, rosacea and pigmentation so it’s definitely one to look for on an ingredients list. It’s a form of vitamin B3 and although it’s been popular with dermatologists for decades, it’s only just hit the mainstream when it comes to skincare you can buy.
It not only tackles the spots themselves but also the scarring that comes with it without irritating skin.
However, it's important to be realistic with exactly how much it can do to change the skin texture. 'Niacinamide can help with evening out pigmentation and reducing redness and inflammation. It typically won't create major changes for indentations and deeper textural changes in the skin', explains Dr Elbuluk.
ELLE Edit: Niacinamide For Oily Skin
La Roche-Posay Niacinamide B10 Serum
When our skin is acting up, it's in La Roche-Posay we trust. The brand's niacinamide serum contains a hefty dose of the good stuff alongside hyaluronic acid and anti-inflammatory extracts to soothe acne-prone complexions.
Medik8 Clarity Peptides™
Medik8, the masters of retinol, are pretty good with niacinamide too. This milky, calming serum is one of the speediest saviours you can reach for when blemishes strike. Apply liberally each night for clear skin by the weekend.
Breaking down the barriers between good skin and technical jargon is Byoma, a bank account-friendly brand that you've probably seen all over your Instagram already. This serum contains a skin-loving blend of niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and ceramides: a no-brainer for those wanting to minimise hyperpigmentation and improve tone while keeping their skin barrier hydrated and happy.
The Inkey List Niacinamide Serum
This affordable niacinamide serum gives anything but budget results; with 10% niacinamide alongside hydrating hyaluronic acid, it pretty much covers all bases. Crucially, it doesn't pill under foundation either.
Glossier Super Pure
Niacinamide is great on its own, but when you pair it with zinc you've got a serious power-couple situation. This no-messing watery serum is especially good for balancing overly oily, spot-prone skin.
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
This is the best budget niacinamide serum for blemishes out there – it's potent, easily absorbed, and blended with zinc for extra blemish-busting powers. However, it can pill beneath foundation, so best to employ it at night.
