You've overcome acne, treated the scars and dealt with those pesky blackheads but there's one thing preventing you from achieving seamless skin - enlarged pores - and you aren't alone.
'Although we may not like the size of our pores, they do have a purpose,' says Lorraine Scrivener, skin expert and director of the Eden Skin Clinic. 'They are tiny openings to hair follicles and each one produces a natural oil which helps us maintain healthy skin. These oils protect us against infection, dryness and skin chapping.'
While pores serve an important function, there is no denying that they can be unsightly and annoying, especially as we so often find ourselves the target of megapixel smartphone cameras on a daily basis - but to quash what you may have heard about pores, there is actually no real way to 'close' them up.
'It is a myth to think that certain products such as toners and other treatments close pores,' says consultant dermatologist and British Skin Foundation spokesperson Dr. Anjali Mahto. 'Many can simply minimise the appearance of them only and this is because pores don't have muscles around them allowing them to open or close.'
What Causes Enlarged Pores?
Whilst many of us may have inherited pores on the larger side from our parents (thanks mum and dad), there are a few other causes that you might not be aware of, some we can control and other's we can't:
- Ageing: 'we naturally lose collagen and elastin which are the proteins that give the skins its strength and elasticity' explains Dr Nicole Uchendu, Aesthetic and wellness doctor at TWN Clinic.
- Hormones: 'increased levels of androgen hormones (such as testosterone) are a contributing factor to acne. In acne, there is an overproduction of oil along with trapped dirt and dead skin cells, which cause blocked and enlarged pores'.
- Sun Damage: I know, we keep going on about this but UV light really is the skin's enemy. It causes skin to lose elasticity, so pores become more dilated.
- Environmental Pollutants: These can block and stretch out pores, making them appear larger.
What we put on our skin also effects the size of our pores. Dr Nicole Uchendu lists the big ones to avoid: 'Coconut oil, marula oil, and palm oil are all very commonly used in skin products. Though they may be very hydrating, they can also be extremely comedogenic. Lanolins are hailed for their conditioning properties for the skin, but may also cause pore blockage. Thick and heavy creams such as petroleum, coco butter and shea butter can also be culprits for blocked and enlarged pores'.
So if we can't get rid of enlarged pores entirely, what are the most effective ways to diminish them?
How To Minimise Pores
1. Opt For A Non-Ablative Laser Treatment
Not just for healing acne or blasting scars, laser treatment can also help shrink the appearance of pores, as each light pulse works to smooth and refine while encouraging collagen, which plumps up the skin for a more flawless look.
'Pores are slightly larger in between the eyebrows, nose and on the chin,' says Lorraine, but lasers can really help rejuvenate these areas, making the pore appear more reduced. If you're not prepared for downtime, choose a non-ablative laser such as ND:YAD, the Alexandrite laser or a light-based treatment like IPL. They aren't exactly painful but clients may feel a warm sensation or the feeling of an elastic band being flicked on to the skin.'
With that in mind, each laser machine and technique can vary between 3 to 4 twenty or thirty minute sessions, but not all lasers are suitable for all skin types. Lorraine suggests booking in for a thorough consultation and a patch test to determine which one is suitable for you.
2. Incorporate Tretinoin or Retinol Into Your Skincare Routine
Tretinoin - which assumes the brand name Retin-A - is a form of vitamin A which encourages the skin to renew itself at lightening speed, and while it is largely used to treat acne, there is now good evidence to suggest that it can reduce pore size, too.
'With continued use, retinoid products can help the appearance of pore size,' says Dr. Mahto. 'Prescription strength tretinoin 0.05% is an effective pore-minimising agent and it also has the ability to improve wrinkles and pigmentation. While Tretinoin works well, you need to remember that it is a strong agent and can cause dryness and irritation. In this situation, an over the counter retinol product could be a more reasonable option. Retinols are weaker agents that come in varying strengths but cause less irritation.'
Lorraine also agrees that it is so important to get it right when using potent products such as these. 'Prolonged use of products like Retin-A is not advised,' she says. 'It can actually cause photosensitivity, so a high sun factor is always needed, but other side effects can be dry, red and irritated skin, so a cream like this should only be used on affected areas.'
If you experience these side effects after a while, be sure to make an appointment with a skincare specialist to discuss other options.
Kiehl's Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum
Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair with Buffer Cream
3. Try A Micro-Needling Treatment
Not as painful or scary as it sounds, the medical grade micro-needling technique uses a number of virtually undetectable needles which create even smaller micro-channels in the skin to remodel collagen and to encourage a healing response in the deeper layers. In turn, this works to diminish the appearance of pores on the skin's surface.
'The collagen that is produced in and around the pores can cause them to appear smaller and tighter. The effect on pores is even more evident when microneedling is combined with radiofrequency. As well as reducing the appearance of pores, micro-needling is an effective treatment for improving the skins texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, reversing sun damage, and improving acne scarring and hyperpigmentation' explains Dr Nicole Uchendu.
But why is it so great? Unlike most lasers, this type of skin-refining treatment is compatible with a much wider range of skin tones, so if you have a darker complexion, it may be better for you to look in to this first.
It is also non ablative, so will only leave you with a few hours of redness - but what if you're prepared to deal with downtime? 'You could also try microdermabrasion,' suggests Lorraine, a technique which uses a jet of abrasive crystals to exfoliate the skin. 'This helps to remove dead skin cells and gently buffs over enlarged pores.'
4. Book In For A Chemical Peel Or Invest In Acids
'Professional peels are good at helping to rejuvenate the skin, encouraging old skin cells to shed and revealing healthier, fresher skin,' says Lorraine. 'They also kick-start a process called 'purging' which will help to lift blackheads and cellular debris from pores, making the skin appear smoother and tighter. In turn, pores look reduced.'
But it is important to pick the right one. Skin peels range from light, medium and deep and there are a range of different ingredients which you can discuss with your facialist or a dermatologist depending on your skin type.
Dr Winnie Uchendu, Aesthetic and wellness doctor at TWN Clinic, lists the acids to invest in for tackling enlarged pores:
- Retinoic Acid: 'Retinoids are extraordinary at reducing oil production in sebum glands. They increase skin cell turnover resulting in resurfacing and unclogging of pores.
- Salicylic Acid: 'It is oil-soluble, meaning that not only can it loosen dead skin cells from skin’s surface to aid exfoliation, but it can also can penetrate through oily skin to dissolve dirt and debris deep within the pores'.
- Alpha-Hydroxy Acid: 'They are chemical exfoliants that work by removing dead skin cells from the top layer of the skin. They increase collagen and improve the quality of elastin fibres, which provide scaffolding and support to the skin and the pores'.
- L- Ascorbic Acid: AKA, Vitamin C is not only an antioxidant to protect against UV damage but also slows down collagen depletion to prevent pores from enlarging.
ELLE Edit: Salicylic Acid
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Ultra Concentrate Serum
Medik8 Blemish SOS Rapid Action Target Gel
Caudalie Vinopure Blemish Control Salicylic Serum
The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution
5. Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate
'Pores are open for a few reasons - dehydration (a lack of water in the skin, not dry skin), part of the ageing process and genetics,' says Kristi Shuba skincare specialist and co-founder of Katherine Daniels Cosmetics, which is why it is so important to maintain moisture levels in the skin - but how?
'Hydrating treatments and anything that will flood the surface of the skin with moisture are great for diminishing pores,' Kristi continues. 'Both the Katherine Daniels Age Defence Nourishing Hydrating Treatment for older skin and the Energising Radiance Treatment massively hydrates the skin. Not only will treatments like these help to iron away lines, but they give the appearance of snapping the pores closed.'
Stocking up on products containing hyaluronic acid, which delivers an intense hit of hydration to every single cell, will also work wonders.
Dr Winnie Uchendu explains the benefits: 'Keeping the skin hydrated with topical products can play a role in reducing the appearance of enlarged pores. It’s important to ensure that your moisturiser isn’t comedogenic (pore-blocking) and won’t cause stretching out of the pores. Opting for an ingredient like hyaluronic acid in your moisturiser is highly recommended as it increases the water content of the skin without adding any oil, making it a great option for those with enlarged pores and oily or acne prone skin'.
And according to Matt Plowman of Cardiff Sports Nutrition, we should aim to drink at least two litres of water a day, taking sips every fifteen minutes to hydrate from the inside out.
ELLE Edit: Best Hyaluronic Acid Skincare Products
Find us another SPF that cools, hydrates, protects as well as La Roche-Posay's and we'll eat our hat. The refreshing light blue gel formula is packed with hyaluronic acid to moisturise skin whilst shielding from sun damage. The best bit? You won't find any chalky white colour payoff here.
SkinCeutical's oil-free hyaluronic acid serum is no nonsense when it comes to hydrating your skin. Ideal for acne-prone skin (which also needs hydrating just FYI), this is the HA serum for all skin types. Apply on its own to clean skin or add a few drops to your moisturiser to boost hydration.
Vichy Liftactiv H.A Epidermic Filler Smoothing 1.5% Hyaluronic Acid Serum
If needles aren't your thing, then Vichy's 'filler' hyaluronic acid serum is the one for you. Formulated to plump skin from within, this ultra-hydrating treatment will leave your face feeling super juicy.
The key ingredient for plumping your skin, Glow Recipe's pleasingly pink hyaluronic acid serum is named for good reason. Boasting no less than five different weights of HA to penetrate your skin at multiple levels, this ultra lightweight serum will leave your face feeling firmer and bouncier.
Dedicated to vegan skincare that actually works, Youth To The People's hyaluronic acid moisturiser combines superfoods kale and spinach with hyaluronic acid to make a refreshing whipped gel cream that sinks into skin in seconds. The best bit? The packaging is totally recyclable so you can be as nice to the planet as you are to your skin.
This fragrance-free hyaluronic and vitamin B5 packed serum not only replenishes skins hydration levels but keeps it locked in thanks to the presence of 3 different ceramides.
Those in search of a big hyaluronic hit will fall in love with Mario Badescu's eye cream which has a huge cult following.
Any skincare that promises to soothe and calm our skin whilst delivering a refreshing hit of hydration is alright by us. Paint this jelly mask onto clean skin and let the hyaluronic acid work its magic.
This delightful sounding bubbling mask is like an actual cloud of hydration for your skin. Apply onto clean skin, enjoy the fluffy bubbles, then rinse off after 15 minutes to reveal newly moisturised skin.
Veering into the more expensive end of the scale, this hyaluronic acid serum from skincare expert Dr. Barbara Sturm is more than worth the investment. Packed full of long and short chain hyaluronic acid molecules, a few drops of this on clean skin everyday and you can wave that parched complexion goodbye.
Beauty obsessives rarely leave The Ordinary without stockpiling the Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5. Instead of drawing water out of the skin for temporary surface hydration, it boasts three forms of hyaluronic acid in varying molecular weights which reach the cells at deeper levels. The pocket-friendly price-tag is the icing on the cake.
This clear liquid may look pretty humble but the targeted formula boasts a powerhouse of ingredients, including moisture magnet hyaluronic acid, to restore hydration to even the most parched of skin cells. Ditch the thick body lotion - this takes mere seconds to absorb so you can get dressed straight away.
6. Apply Your Make-Up Like A Pro
If you find that foundation only serves to accentuate the appearance of your pores, you may be applying it wrong.
'To create a really flawless effect, after using a flat foundation brush, dab a damp Beauty Blender over the skin,' says make-up artist Francesca Kearns. 'This really presses the product into the skin to create a much smoother and seamless effect. The NARS Velvet Matte Skin Tint - £31 is a great product to start with. Rose fruit extract visibly diminishes pores and regulates oil production. For more coverage, opt for the Charlotte Tilbury Light Wonder Foundation - £32.'
And don't sack off pore refining primers - they really do work.
'They aren't just a fad,' says Francesca. 'The NYX Pore Filling Primer - £11 is great because it contains silica and Dimethicone which will help smooth out pores while leaving the skin looking and feeling ultra-silky. Another amazing buy is the Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer - £26. Again, the silica ingredient provides the skin with a veil-like smoothness, really minimising the appearance of pores.'
ELLE Edit: The Best Make-Up Primers Tested
Formulated with Micronised Pearls and Porcelain Flower Extract, this silky soft primer delivers on the glow. Pair with foundation for a glowy but not shiny finish or simply top with concealer where you need it for a majorly fresh complexion.
Ok, we know this isn't a true primer in the traditional sense, but it is the best base we've come across for giving you super flawless skin before you've even considered applying foundation. Acting Beauty Director George Driver applies it before tinted moisturiser for a dewy boost and extra coverage that doesn't feel heavy or overly matte.
Dior Backstage Face & Body Primer, 001 Universal
A backstage essential at every Dior show, this juicy peach-hued primer ensures models' make-up stays put even under blaring runway lights.
If a primer packing serious skincare benefits is what you're after then look no further than La Mer. Enriched with the brand's signature Miracle Broth formula, this hydrating primer plumps and preps skin for perfectly smooth make-up application. Not a dry patch in sight.
The secret weapon of backstage make-up artists everywhere, Bobbi Brown's face base works as a nourishing day cream as well as keeping your face of make-up firmly in place for hours on end. The key ingredients? Shea butter and squalane, for a hydrating primer that Bobbi Brown herself insists is never greasy.
If there's anyone that knows about skincare it's A-list dermatologist Dr. Barbara Sturm. Combining antioxidants, Hyaluronic Acid and pearl pigments, this creamy primer aims to improve the apperance of your make-up whilst caring for your skin.
Pat McGrath Labs Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Primer
If the Mother of Make-Up, Pat McGrath, creates a primer that can keep make-up in place from backstage, to runway and through the after party, you know it's going to more than decent. Formulated with Hyaluronic Acid, this pro primer will stop your foundation from sliding whilst giving your skin a hydration boost.
Victoria Beckham Beauty by Augustinus Bader Cell Rejuvenating Priming Moisturizer
The dream team behind your glowiest complexion ever, skin genius Augustinus Bader and beauty icon Victoria Beckham, have got your make-up on lockdown courtesy of this priming moisturiser. Formulated with Bader's game-changing TFC8® amino acid compound this techy primer keeps make-up firmly in place whilst minimising the telltale signs of ageing.
bareMinerals Prime Time™ Brightening Foundation Primer
'I personally love bareMinerals' Prime Time Brightening Foundation Primer,' says Webb. 'It instantly adds brightness and hydration whilst minimising any redness and blurs fine lines.'
REN Clean Skincare Perfect Canvas Clean Primer
A primer in a pipette? Yup, it's totally a thing. REN's lightweight formula has a matte finish so your make-up won't slip and slide all over the place, plus it's silicone free.
Bobbi Brown Primer Plus Protection SPF 50 - £24.50
Combine your daily SPF with a radiance-giving primer with Bobbi Brown's oil-free primer. Formulated with Sodium Hyaluronate, it'll smooth over pores and wrinkles whilst giving your complexion a serious hydration hit.
Marc Jacobs Under(Cover) Blurring Coconut Face Primer - Blur-fection - £17
This miniature size primer is ideal for carrying in your hand luggage for that last minute make-up application just before your flight lands. Formulated with five forms of coconut (oil, juice and water to name just three) for extra hydration, this is a gift for parched post-aeroplane skin.
The Ordinary High-Adherence Silicone Primer - £3.90
At just £3.99 this is the best value primer that actually does the job. Formulated with advanced adaptive silicones, this techy primer minimises the appearance of pores for an airbrushed finish to your make-up that lasts all day long.
Lancer Studio Filter Pore Perfecting Primer - £58
The boujiest primer of the bunch, this luxe make-up base works on all skin tones to give a pore-free complexion. Added amino acids hydrate and soften your skin for the ultimate multi-tasking beauty product.
This Works In Transit Camera Close-Up - £32
This Works' genius formula is a mask, moisturiser and primer all in one. Smooth on before foundation to brighten and rehydrate tired skin with hyaluronic acid, argan oil and a hit of caffeine.
Charlotte Tilbury Brightening Youth Glow Primer - £39
Is it a highlighter? Is it a primer? Well, yes and yes, but also so much more. Charlotte Tilbury's latest secret to getting your skin but way better is a blemish blurring, pore concealing, glow giving all in one foundation base of dreams.
Clarins SOS Primer - £27
If the world of colour correcting is too much hassle for your morning routine/a little over your head, then Clarins' new primers are for you. Available in six shades, each primer tackles a different skin problem which is helpfully specified on the packaging. Just in case you weren't entirely sure why you were swiping green cream onto your face before your foundation...
Sisley Instant Glow Primer - £66
The ultimate make-up multi-tasker, use Sisley's primer as a radiant base before applying foundation, dab onto the high points of your face to use as highlighter or wear completely alone for a seriously radiant complexion.
NARS Pore & Shine Control Primer - £29
Control that shine and blur those pores with NARS' oil-free matte primer infused with soft focus powders so you look selfie ready 24/7.
YSL Encre De Peau All Hours Primer - £32
When you feel like your foundation refuses to stay on your face, YSL's long-wearing primer makes it stay put. Huzzah!
Hourglass Veil Mineral Primer - £53
A cult classic for a reason, this ticks all the longevity, skin-perfecting boxes and has SPF15 mineral UV protection. If you've got sensitive skin, it's free of all the usual aggravating suspects - oil, fragrance, parabens and sulphates. Overall, a difficult one to beat.
7. Choose Your Daily SPF Carefully
Even though you may think that your skin looks and feels heaps healthier when it has caught a little bit of sun, it has been suggested that heat and UV rays act as a pore-size inducer - and it could be down to the loss of moisture.
'Being exposed to the sun is very likely to dry the skin,' says Kristi, 'and long term, this can make pores appear open and enlarged. That said, many inexpensive sun lotions are likely to be heavily zinc based and the chalky white substance may sit in open pores. This causes a plug and can give the appearance of reduced pore size but, over time, this can actually result in blackheads as the pore becomes blocked.'
So what types of creams should we be investing in?
'Choose something that has great hydrating properties,' says Kristi, while Dr. Mahto suggests we should avoid thick, creamy textures altogether. 'Look for those that are in a gel or lotion form', she says. 'Many people with acne prone skin do better with mineral sunscreens usually containing ingredients such as titanuim oxide.'
13 Face Moisturisers With SPF To Use Every Day
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