From skin-brightening acids to pigment-targeting treatments, these are the face peels ELLE editors use on the regular.

Katy Young: Laser-Focused Resurfacing

katy young

Few people will attest to the power of skincare more than I do, but there are moments in our skin’s life cycle –post-summer, stress, scarring or pregnancy – when lotions and serums just don’t cut the mustard. Not like a laser does, the gentlest of which are said to have triple the power of a chemical peel, with no recovery downtime. In the right hands, on the right face, a laser is unbeatable for resurfacing skin, and able to reach depths (aka the dermis) that acids just can’t touch. But those hands really do matter, as you’ll need one to hold if you’re venturing into the world of lasers: thousands of brands are vying for your business.

What’s useful to arm yourself with is the knowledge that all laser treatments are powered by light. The different treatments apply different colour filters, so that the concentrated beam penetrates down to a specific depth to provide its own unique effect, whether that be hair removal, fading scars or resurfacing. There are about 10 main treatments to wrap our heads around, with names that are head-spinning: Nd:Yag, Er:Yag, Alexandrite and Q-Switched, anyone? And that’s before we get onto brand monikers.

I cheat the process (and win) by seeing Debbie Thomas, who I trust entirely with my peel-good factor, and not just because she has every laser available at her fingertips. Most clinics will convince you that its one and only machine is best for everyone all the time, which simply can’t be true. Find someone who cherry-picks your laser treatment on every visit, just like Debbie. She says we’re using her Fotona4D machine (which uses Nd:Yag tech and fracelated erbium peeling) next time to fade melasma, shrink pores and stimulate plumping collagen ‘for extra tightening which has a smoothing effect’. A cut above a cream, right?

Cicaplast Balm B5 Multi-Purpose Repairing Balm
La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Balm B5 Multi-Purpose Repairing Balm
£11 at LookFantastic£8 at sephora.co.uk£10 at Escentual
Flawless Daily Sunscreen SPF 50
Dr Sam's Flawless Daily Sunscreen SPF 50
Oxygenating Foundation
Oxygenetix Oxygenating Foundation

Dr Ewoma Ukeleghe: How To Exfoliate With Acids

dr ewoma ukeleghe

Regular exfoliation is one of my secrets to achieving beautiful, glass-like skin. I prefer to use chemical exfoliants (also known as acids) to physical options (like scrubs). You’ve probably heard of AHAs, BHAs and PHAs, but knowing what these ingredients do for your skin is definitely worth your time.

AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid – great for addressing dullness, texture and signs of premature ageing. BHA means beta hydroxy acid, like salicylic – perfect for those with acne-prone skin who are battling breakouts, as they can penetrate through oil on the skin. And PHAs are polyhydroxy acids – look for gluconolactone and lacto bionic. These are often marketed as the next-generation AHAs, as they are very similar but don’t come with a risk of irritation.

Another option is enzymatic or ‘natural’ exfoliants, which are plant-derived enzymes. These can be an excellent option if you’re Team Clean Beauty. But they’re not necessarily less potent and can be very stimulating, so aren’t always best for easily irritated skin. Physical exfoliating is an option, but I find the particle size of many scrubs too large and abrasive, which damages the skin’s barrier function. However, if I have the random urge to rub at my face vigorously, I’ll use something gentle and luxe, such as The Rice Polish by Tatcha. Otherwise, I stick to my beloved acids, that provide a pathway to brighter, clearer, smoother skin.

Moisturizing Renewal Cream Supreme
RéVive Moisturizing Renewal Cream Supreme
Overnight Skin Perfector 2.0
Beauty Pie Overnight Skin Perfector 2.0

Jennifer George: Peels And Treatments For Pigmentation

jennifer george headshot

After wrinkles, pigmentation is the skin issue about which I am most frequently asked for advice. It can appear as darkening of the skin – a ‘moustache’ above the upper lip, or splotches across the cheeks and bridge of the nose. Or, if it’s melasma (often caused by big hormonal changes, like pregnancy), larger areas of discolouration can seemingly appear overnight, especially during the summer. But, in reality, it’s been lingering under the surface, waiting to surprise you, after years of sun damage.

The good news is that pigmentation-erasing treatments and products are widely available. For a head start, I’d invest in a block of in-clinic laser or IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) sessions, which encourage the dermal tissue to regenerate, ‘lifting’ the discolouration away. These require a little downtime afterwards (a few days at most), but are extremely effective.

At home, look for peel products with glycolic acid (an AHA), which makes light work of dead skin cells, and acts as an exfoliant to slowly ‘remove’ the dark spots. AHAs are strong (and not suitable for very sensitive skin), so expect some tingling and maybe even prickling, but if your skin starts feeling hot or itchy whip it off and soothe with a calming cream. With consistent use, and patience, a brighter, clearer canvas will be revealed.

Caudalie Vinoperfect Glycolic Peel Mask 75ml
Caudalie Caudalie Vinoperfect Glycolic Peel Mask 75ml
KateCeuticals Resurfacing Overnight Peel
Kate Somerville KateCeuticals Resurfacing Overnight Peel
Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight Cream
SkinCeuticals Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight Cream

Medina Azaldin: Gentle Treatments For Blemish-Prone Skin

medina azaldin

As someone with oily/combination skin, and a tendency to breakout, I understand why people with similar skin types would avoid resurfacing treatments. When your skin already feels sensitive and reactive, going in hard with peels, scrubs or exfoliants can seem like asking for trouble. And you’d be right– to an extent. ‘Exfoliation can be a great option for those with acne-prone skin, especially those with blackheads and whiteheads, as it helps remove dead skin cells and loosen the small plugs of keratin, sebum and bacteria that lead to blemishes,’ says Dr Alexis Granite. ‘It’s important not to overdo it however, as that can lead to irritation and more breakouts.’

But both Dr Granite and skincare expert Ole Henriksen agree that chemical exfoliants are less irritating on active breakouts than a gritty scrub. Since my skin responds better when I play the long game instead of trying a quick fix, to maintain clarity I rely on a salicylic-infused cleanser that won’t strip my skin. I’ll then soak a reusable pad with a gentle formula exfoliant and press only on the blemishes for a targeted approach.

The anti-inflammatory nature of a BHA helps to calm angry spots and speed up the healing process. I’m also a recent convert to Ole Henriksen Dewtopia night serum: the formula is padded with soothing aloe to create a noticeable glow without stinging my face. Just don’t overdo the acids, never skip SPF (exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun’s rays) and remember that, if your acne is persistent, seeking advice from a dermatologist is still the best way to treat it.

Katie Withington: Clarifying From Head To Toe

katie withington headshot

As an acne-prone teenager, that viral 'glass skin' glow was never really feasible. As a result, exfoliating skincare and I have had a long alliance, battling the stubborn congestion in my cheeks and the deep hormonal-driven cysts along my jaw. However, one thing I hadn’t anticipated once my facial acne finally began to clear up was that my battle against the blemishes from the neck down would become a tougher one to win. Add in my susceptibility to pesky ingrown hairs, and my exfoliating habits have taken a southern focus in the last year.

‘A combination of physical and chemical exfoliation can help treat all these issues,’ Dr Howard Murad, dermatologist and founder of Murad skincare, tells me. ‘Use a body brush or exfoliating gloves to remove old dead and dying cells, while simultaneously stimulating the lymphatic system, increasing the blood flow to the affected areas and improving the body’s ability to remove built-up toxins that create congestion.’

He advises looking for products with glycolic and salicylic acids to gently remove dead skin cells, ‘helping to keep pores clean and clear from oil’. I have found the best combination is to use coarse exfoliating gloves with my usual body wash while in the shower, then a few times a week adding a sugar scrub with added exfoliating enzymes, something with a modern, melt-away texture that tackles my textured zones without upsetting my skin’s natural barrier. I’ve also committed to nightly applications of a gentle acid-based body mist or cream. Now, my active breakouts and stubborn scars are visibly on their way out. And my body feels one step closer to that juicy glow I’m beginning to achieve on my face.

Transforming Clarity Body Spray
Ameliorate Transforming Clarity Body Spray
Now 35% Off
Squalane and Enzyme Sugar Body Scrub
Biossance Squalane and Enzyme Sugar Body Scrub
2% BHA Body Smoothing Spot Exfoliant
Paula's Choice 2% BHA Body Smoothing Spot Exfoliant