Those hard, white bumps on your skin that just won't let up, no matter how hard you squeeze?
They probably aren't spots.
Often tiny but always annoying, milia can crop up anywhere under the skin, although most of us tend to mistake them for acne clusters or even skin tags.
The good news? There are simple ways to stop milia from rearing their heads and some seriously effective methods for milia removal if you're late to the game.
Ahead, a top dermatologist share the best way to treat milia once and for all.
What Are Milia?
Before you undergo some major milia removal, it pays to know exactly what they are.
Spoiler: Even though they may look similar to whiteheads, they are nothing like them.
'Milia are small white bumps or cysts that appear on the surface of the skin when dead skin cells become trapped,' explains Consultant Dermatologist at Self London Dr. Anjali Mahto.
'They are made up of keratin, a protein on the outer layer of the skin, and whilst they resemble whiteheads, they are not related to acne or infection and are simply a pocket of normal skin. They shouldn't be treated in the same way,' she adds.
What Causes Milia?
According to Dr. Anjali, milia on the face are usually formed spontaneously, and there are a number of factors that contribute.
'They are very common and can affect any age group from infancy to the elderly. But it’s likely that smothering your skin in heavy unguents contributes to their formation, hence their frequency in adult women,' Dr. Sam Bunting, founder of Dr Sam’s Skincare, adds.
'A prolonged history of sun damage is also a potential trigger – it can discourage cells from naturally exfoliating, encouraging the formation of these tiny annoying cysts.'
How Do I Get Rid Of Milia?
It goes without saying, but don't go squeezing the milia as that can cause scarring and damage the skin barrier. Instead try these methods to safely and effectively tackle the pesky spots.
1. Gentle Exfoliation
There are endless benefits to exfoliating your skin, including: minimising hyper-pigmentation, banishing blemishes and reducing superficial acne scarring - and seeing as milia are a result of trapped skin cells, exfoliation is brilliant at keeping them from springing up, too.
'[Gentle exfoliation] allows the dead skin cells to be removed, resulting in much less build up,' explains Dr. Anjali.
'It also allows for moisturiser to penetrate the skin further,' she adds, which means you'll get a hell of a lot more out of your luxury skincare arsenal.
ELLE Edit: Gentle Exfoliators
Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
If you've ever asked a beauty editor for advice on exfoliating, they've likely mentioned this. People genuinely call it life-changing, due to its resurfacing, spot-busting powers.
Ren Clean Skincare Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic
Bump-busting and dead-skin-cell-clearing, this is one of the most tried, tested and trusted exfoliators. Try it before make-up for super smooth application.
PHA is generally regarded as the best-for-beginners acid (compared to AHA). This exfoliating toner can even be paired with retinol.
Biossance Biossance Squalane and BHA Pore Minimising Toner 120ml
Looking to switch to plant-based skincare? This pore-refining toner is gentle yet effective
without the need for animal extracts.
This glow-boosting toner makes short work of clearing dead skin cells, pigmentation and pesky skin congestion.
A must-have in the arsenal of sensitive skin types, this exfoliating toner harnesses the gentle but effective power of polyhydroxy acids (aka PHAs) and niacinamide to help clear congestion and resurface your skin.
If you're not keen on toners and tonics, this gentle everyday cleanser is an equally effective alternative. Transforming from powder to foam with water alone, it provides a light brightening effect day after day.
This luxe cocktail of fruit AHAs takes inspiration from traditional Japanese skincare ingredients. Think niacinamide, Japanese mugwort and antioxidant wild rose.
While AHA's are good for getting rid of dead skin cells, the use of them alone won't do much for acne-prone skin. This exfoliating peel from Murad combines a powerhouse trio of AHA, BHA and a retinoid to clear congested skin in a formulation that's gentle enough to use daily.
2. Chemical Peels
Superficial peels containing AHAs and BHAs, including glycolic and salicylic acid, provide accelerated, chemical exfoliation without the need to aggressively scrub your skin.
Non-abrasive, they only lift off the top layer of skin, ensuring the skin is 'clean and fresh,' according to Dr. Anjali. And fewer dead cells = fewer unsightly bumps.
Can't make it to a professional clinic? At-home face peels are gaining traction among those on a quest for clearer, more refined skin, and with high concentrations of exfoliating ingredients like lactic and glycolic acid, the de-congesting, complexion perfecting results are pretty much undeniable. However, less is more when working with acid-infused products at home. Start with a lower concentration once a week to see how your complexion reacts, and keep the rest of your skincare routine gentle with barrier-building ceramides and hydrating ingredients.
ELLE Edit: At-Home Face Peels
Kate Somerville KateCeuticals Resurfacing Overnight Peel
When it comes to facial peels, you can guarantee that Kate Somerville knows what she's doing. This overnight peel packs some serious resurfacing ingredients including retinol and glycolic acid to speed up skin cell turnover and bring forth your best skin.
With a powerhouse of 10% lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and pro-vitamin B5, you'll be hard-pushed to find a gentle peel targets dull and uneven skin so effortlessly.
If you're not a fan of overnight peels, this glycolic scrub-and-mask only requires you to leave it on for ten minutes before unveiling a bright new complexion with pores looking visibly minimised.
You'll be hard pressed to find a Beauty Editor who doesn't love Dr Dennis' peel pads. Easy to use, and with a range of strengths for all skin types, they provide a thorough yet foolproof way to fresh, soft skin. Our favourite? These 'glow' version, which also add a hint of bronzy tan to your complexion. Genius.
Elemis Papaya Enzyme Peel
Natural and gentle, so better if you've got a more sensitive skin type, the fruit enzymes nibble away at dead skin revealing a smoother, brighter complexion after use. Simple to use, it's a great option for beginners who are nervous of more aggressive formulas.
You've probably seen this Vampire-esque solution all over Instagram: a garnet red mask looking like the wearer has had a horrible accident. But don't be put off by the colour, the blend of AHA and BHA exfoliants can - used correctly (it is a potent strength but not an unsafe level) - do wonders, especially on oily skin types. Use once a weekly to help keep blemishes and dullness at bay.
Harnessing the gentle buffing properties of fruit enzymes to eat away at surface-level dead skin, this peel offers a gentle alternative to stronger exfoliators that might cause irritation to sensitive skin types.
Murad Replenishing Multi-Acid Peel
Easy to use (just shake it to mix the bi-phase formula, sweep on with a cotton pad at night: simples), this AHA/BHA blend is formulated to accelerate cell renewal, and is proven to speed it up by 33%. Which means brighter skin, plumper skin, and even reduced scarring and lines.
Created by former laser and wound-healing specialist (aka expert at healing and rebooting skin) Dr Phillip Levy, this product is the perfect balance of effective and fortifying. Leave on for a few minutes and rinse off, then expect some light peeling a couple of days later. No redness, no stinging, just baby-soft skin.
3. Ditch Heavy Creams For Lightweight Textures
If milia tend to cluster around your eye area, it could have something to do with the texture of your skincare products. That super-luxe eye cream you just splurged on? It might be doing your skin more harm than good.
'I suggest seeking out skincare products labeled non-comedogenic,' Dr. Bunting says. 'This is especially true of products designed to stay on skin for protective reasons, like sunscreen. I also recommend taking particular care when choosing products for eye make-up removal - oily or bi-phasic eye-make-up removers tend to be more problematic.'
Applying thicker creams to thin and delicate areas of skin has the potential to both block the pores and to trap dead skin cells - cue an army of pesky under-the-skin bumps.
The solution? A lightweight eye cream formula that's quickly absorbed without blocking pores.
ELLE Edit: Lightweight Eye Creams
This silky formula has everything but the kitchen sink; Vitamin C, peptides, bakuchiol and squalane are just a few of the highly effective ingredients that make up this small but mighty rejuvenating eye cream.
Origins Ginzing Eye Cream
Thought the only way to combat tiredness with coffee was by drinking it? Think again. This brightening cream contains caffeine and hyaluronic acid to perk up tired peepers and it has colour correction in two contrasting shades.
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Gel-Creme
Here the famous ANR complex (brightening, smoothing, moisturising) is harnessed in a lightweight but velvety gel-like formula.
The skin around our eyes can be damaged by a lot of things, from sun damage to pollution. Verso's Super Eye Serum contains their Retinol 8 Complex stimulates the skin under our eyes into producing more collagen, resulting in a firmer, plumper appearance.
If you're looking for a nourishing eye cream without the thick texture, stop the search. This lightweight formula enriched with vitamin E leaves you with smoother under eyes (plus make-up looks great on top of it).
La Roche-Posay Pigmentclar Anti Dark Circles Eye Cream
This caffeine and niacinamide enriched serum comes complete with cooling metal applicator to perk up tired eyes and minimise dark circles.
Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Eye Cream 15ml
With 5% vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and polypeptides, this versatile eye cream tackles dullness and dark circles, no matter your skin type.
Drunk Elephant Shaba Complex Eye Serum
Whether it's wrinkles or dryness, this hydrating formula makes short work of plumping, smoothing and restoring the balance around your delicate eye area.
This travel-friendly tube is filled with nourishing peptides and vegan squalane that effortlessly minimise the appearance of dark circles and give your skin a protective moisture boost.
4. Incorporate Retinol Into Your Night-Time Routine
Retinols (vitamin A derivatives) are brilliant at kick-starting cell turnover, and less layers of dead skin results in fewer obstructions, fewer white bumps and a more even, flawless skin texture.
And although retinol has bit of a bad rap in skincare for turning complexions flaky and red, most modern, non-prescription formulas are kinder on skin. Just make sure you ease into it with a weekly application and don't use them alongside acids.
Bumps, be gone.
ELLE Edit: Retinol Serums and Creams
If you're looking for a way to gradually introduce retinol to your routine, Medik8 is the route we'd recommend first. It's tiered system of retinal serums make for a fail-safe way to gradually up your skin's brightness, texture and resiliance to potent actives.
Ren Clean Skincare Bio Retinoid Youth Serum
Skin not reacted well to retinol? That doesn't mean you have to miss out on better skin. Luckily brands such as Ren are increasingly opting for retinol alternatives, such as Bidens Pilosa, the plant-derived ingredient used in this serum that delivers the same skin-renewing benefits.
Hourglass Equilibrium Resurfacing Retinoid Treatment
‘I love how non-abrasive this is while still giving you the results you’re looking for in a retinol product. It’s fast, too! I noticed improvement in the texture, tone and radiance of my skin after just one week’ says Nam Vo, Elle Beauty Awards 2023 Pro Judge.
Grown attached to your current serum and don't feel like ditching it for an entirely new retinol-based one? No need. Instead, get your hands on Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Booster, a low-level retinol that can be added as a few drops into your current moisturiser or serum.
Another favourite for retinol first-timers, Sunday Riley's retinol-infused night oil has acquired such a rep thanks to its infusion of blue tansy, a flower extract with skin healing and anti-inflammatory properties.
If you've just arrived onto the retinol scene, firstly welcome, secondly you'll want to start with a low % of retinol. Enter Kiehl's retinol micro-dose serum, which delivers the skin-renewing effects of retinol alongside a peptide and ceramide complex to ensure you don't experience redness, peeling, or any of the other unpleasant side effects some retinols can trigger.
This potent cocktail of passionfruit, apricot, kale, winter cherry extracts, skin-firming peptides, essential fatty acids and 1% retinol is a great option if you're looking to plump your fine lines and tackle stubborn dark spots.
Kate Somerville Retinol+ Vitamin C Moisturiser
We all love a 2 for 1, but this skincare find is better than bagging a bargain. Kate Somerville has combined brightening vitamin C with the skin rejuvenating effects of retinol for a cream that leaves skin plump, smooth and even in tone.
La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 an Anti-Ageing Serum for Sensitive Skin
A great option for sensitive skin types, this B3 infused serum is a dream for simultaneously soothing and smoothing.
5. Professional Extraction
'There are many tried and tested treatments available for the removal of milia,'explains Dr. Anjali, 'however one of the most common is by using a sterile needle to create an incision in the skin, making way for careful extraction.'
But to avoid infection and scarring, don't attempt it at home without consulting a professional first.
'The treatment should be undertaken by a qualified dermatologist,' stresses Dr. Anjali. 'They will be able to recommend the best way of extracting the milia. The best type of treatment will also depend on the type of milia you have, as well as the number and location on the face.'
6. Avoid Increased Sun Exposure
This one is a given, but according to Dr. Anjali, increased sun damage and milia go hand in hand.
At the risk of sounding like a broken record, incorporating an SPF into your morning skincare routine is just as important in the winter months as it is in the summer, especially if you're using peels or exfoliators containing acids, as they can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays.
ELLE Edit: Facial SPFs
Ultra Violette Supreme Screen Hydrating Facial Skinscreen SPF 50+
For those with dry skin, this high-factor SPF is just what the dermatologist ordered. It delivers ample hydration without clogging pores, refuses to pill under make-up and is packed with vitamin C to encourage glowing skin.
La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid SPF50+
Use this in place of moisturiser in the mornings. It's incredibly hydrating, doesn't pill under make-up and wears comfortably throughout the day.
If SPFs tend to leave you looking shiny, we'd recommend this pore-blurring primer-meets-sunscreen. It completely mattifies to a post-powder finish without ever looking heavy or flat.
Sun Bum Original Glow Lotion SPF 30+
Skip primer all together and opt for this lightly dewy, medium protection SPF 30. It's illuminating and brightening but sidelines that slick finish and unwanted oily residue.
Garnier Ambre Solaire Over Makeup Super UV Protection Mist SPF50
Looking for a hassle free way to top of your SPF, even when you're wearing make-up? This quick and easy spritz has SPF 50 protection and leaves your skin looking fresh and dewy.
Summer Fridays ShadeDrops Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Mineral Milk Sunscreen
Finally, an SPF that's a real pleasure to use. This goes on like silk, offering SPF30 protection without feeling heavy, greasy or imparting a white cast.
CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF50 for Normal to Dry Skin
Thirsty skin types will drink this hydrating SPF up. With barrier restoring ingredients and a lightweight high factor protection, this nourishing formula is ideal for even the driest of skin types.
Caudalie Vinosun Very High Protection Lightweight Cream
Protection against harmful UVA and UVB rays and pollution? It's no wonder this ultra-light SPF has garnered a cult following. Invisible on all skin tones with a lightweight yet deeply hydrating finish, we could go on and on about this do-it-all formula.
Shiseido Expert Sun Protector Face and Body Lotion SPF50+
This multitasking SPF can be used from head to toe and is beloved by beauty editors far and wide. It's high protection, plumping and durable come rain or shine.
7. Book In For An Electrodessication Treatment
We know what you're thinking: Electrodessi-what?
But if you've been down the exfoliation, chemical peel and retinol route to no avail, you might want step up your game and book in for a professional treatment to get rid of your milia.
'This process uses electricity [and a fine metal electrode or probe - not as terrifying as it sounds, promise] to heat the skin and to destroy the milia,' explains Dr. Anjali - but don't worry, it's done under a local anaesthetic cream to minimise any twinges.
Crystal clear skin? Yes please.
