If you find that there's only so much physical exfoliators and acids are doing for your problem skin - whether you suffer with pigmentation, acne scars, uneven skin texture or clogged pores - it might be time to bring out the big guns.
Enter microdermabrasion, the professional skin treatment that promises clearer, healthier, radiant skin in virtually next to no time at all.
What Is Microdermabrasion?
Nope, it's not the one with the little needles, so you can banish Kim Kardashian's infamous bloody face selfie from your mind ASAP.
Not as complicated, or uncomfortable, as it sounds, microdermabrasion is 'exfoliation in the form of spraying tiny crystals at the skin - usually the face - to remove dead skin cells on the surface', says Dr. Sandro Sansoni from the The Baldan Group.
'Microdermabrasion uses a variable flow of vacuum suction to maintain contact with the skin whilst the crystals (or diamond tips) get to work by smoothing and buffing the skin's surface,' says Lorraine Scrivener, skin expert and founder of Eden Skin Clinics.
'This depends on the percentage of vacuum suction and the grade of crystals chosen by your skincare expert. There are a few different types of microdermabrasion treatments, from diamond tips to crystals and different crystal grades, but this is very much dependent on the clinic carrying out the treatment and the equipment they choose.'
What Does Microdermabrasion Do For Your Skin?
It all sounds pretty cool, but what does the treatment actually do for your skin?
Dr Sophie Shotter explains, 'microdermabrasion is an in-clinic mechanical exfoliation treatment. Buffing away the dead skin cells leaves the skin looking more radiant and feeling smoother. It can help improve surface texture and very superficial fine lines and wrinkles'.
According to The Baldan Group, 'Microdermabrasion is one of the most popular non-surgical skin resurfacing treatments.' The expert exfoliating technique can banish common skin bugbears such as:
- Uneven pigmentation
- Fine lines
- Clogged pores
- Enlarged pores
- Post-acne marks
- Uneven skin texture
- Excessive oil
- Dry skin
And that's before we've touched on its ability to trigger increased levels of collagen and elastin (hello plump, pillowy skin), to allow better absorption of skincare products (meaning better results) and the fact that it reveals newer, healthier cells, lending your face an otherworldly glow.
What Does Microdermabrasion Feel Like?
'The sensation of the treatment feels like mild scratching,' says Lorraine. 'Some clients describe it as feeling like a windy day at the beach. The treatment is comfortable with a satisfying sensation of feeling hoovered, buffed and polished to leave skin feeling squeaky clean, and positively glowing.'
Just don't be put off by the word 'scratching.' Mostly, you can just feel the suction of the of the vacuum as it glides over your skin. It's a little more apparent in certain areas, such as your cheeks and around your nose, where you're a little fleshier.
Overall, it's a super-fast and non-invasive treatment, which means that there's zero downtime, so you can fit it in during your lunch break and not have to worry about scaring anyone off with red raw cheeks.
Important Things To Remember About Microdermabrasion
According to dermatologists, those with darker skin should take caution when looking into treatments like microdermabrasion. Why? There is a chance the treatment could cause skin pigmentation - not ideal when all you're after is a flawless complexion, right?
'Aesthetic procedures, such as dermabrasion (or certain types of laser and chemical peels) can induce post-inflammatory hyper pigmentation, which is the dermatological term used to describe increased melanin production, leading to darker discolouration of the skin following inflammation or injury,' explains London-based Consultant Dermatologist, Dr. Justine Kluk.
'The process is more common in skin of colour, where is can also be more intense and more prolonged,' - so, always make sure to discuss the risks carefully with your doctor before booking in for microdermabrasion or any similar treatments.
And according to Dr. Sandro Sansoni, microdermabrasion is not recommended if you have skin conditions like Rosacea, Eczema, Lupus or open wounds. 'The treatment stimulates blood flow to the face, which can irritate the skin and cause further problems [...] it's best to consult a specialist if you are unsure.'
Dr Sophie Shotter also warns against getting the treatment done if you have sensitive skin. 'I wouldn’t recommend microdermabrasion for very fragile skin prone to thread veins. The mechanical exfoliation can worsen thread veins on the face in patients who are prone to it. It will also have no significant effects on deep acne scars or deeper lines and wrinkles - if you’re looking to address these, then other treatments will be more suitable'.
And as always, it pays to protect your new, healthy skin cells from UV by using an SPF. The derms rate Heliocare's Advanced SPF 50 Gel - £19.95.
3 Professional Microdermabrasion Treatments To Try Now:
1.Aqua 3, Beauti Clinic, from £120 an hour
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Instead of crystals, the Aqua 3 facial harnesses different-sized diamond granules (yep, you read that correctly - diamonds) to break down thickened skin cells, improving acne scars, deep wrinkles and stretch marks.
2. HydraFacial, Debbie Thomas Clinic, from £95 for 30 minutes
The glow is real with this one. Beloved by models and celebrities from Suki Waterhouse to Paris Hilton, it merges detox, cleansing, exfoliation, extraction, hydration and antioxidant protection for clear, radiant, protected skin. Plus, the cool air from the vacuum detracts from the abrasiveness of the crystals.
3. Medical Microdermabrasion, Eden Skin Clinics, from £65
Blackheads, acne, sun damage - no skin gripe stands a chance against this painless, affordable facial treatment, which takes lacklustre skin and makes it luminous.
No time to book in for a professional treatment? All manner of our favourite beauty brands are now formulating skincare products and devices with polishing crystals, similar to those featured in the treatment, which you can use in the comfort of your own bathroom.
If you've not seen the videos of this viral wonder doing the rounds, you might be thankful; Yes, when it's applied, you do look start to look reminiscent of Patrick Bateman in certain American Psycho scenes. However, we can attest that once washed off, the results are something to scream about in a good way. Leave this 30% AHA's and 2% BHA on for ten minutes or less, and you'll be left looking like you've got brand new skin.
Youth To The People Kombucha 11% AHA Exfoliation Power Toner - £33
There's been a lot of talk about overdoing it on the exfoliating recently, so it's not surprising if you're choosing to err on the side of caution when it comes to choosing your exfoliator. This super gentle toner contains 11% AHAs and packs some serious results when it comes to minimising the appearance of pores. Not just a one trick pony, it's also formulated with kombucha black tea and willow bark to enhance the protection of your skin's microbiome.
Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum - £89
While mandelic acid might not get the same fanfare as its more famous AHA counterparts, if you have sensitive skin and want something gentle that's just as effective, this is the acid for you. As well as getting rid of dead skin build-up, the salicylic acid helps to clear out sebum while mandelic acid and bakuchiol helps to minimise the appearance of melasma and dark spots. A truly multi-hyphenate exfoliating serum.
Ameliorate Resurfacing Facial Mask - £22
When it comes to body exfoliation (keratosis pilaris we're looking at you), Ameliorate is top tier at getting rid of those stubborn little bumps. Safe to say that our attention was caught when we heard they were turning their exfoliating expertise to our faces, and we weren't disappointed. Not only does this cream mask take dead skin cells and other accumulated debris to task, but it also simultaneously hits your skin with a wave of hydration, so you'll find no dry or flaky skin here post-masking.
The queen of enviable A-list skin, Dr. Barbara Sturm knows a thing or two about clear complexions. Slough away dead, dry and dull skin whilst keeping things hydrated with Silk Extract, Shea Butter and Jojoba Oil. Tight, post-exfoliated skin is officially a thing of the past.
The cult skincare brand strikes once again! This time with a game changing exfoliator that quite literally peels away to reveal a more radiant you. A feast of Tartaric, Lactic and Citric acids combine to dissolve dead skin cells and impurities leaving your face feeling all kinds of glowy.
Huda Beauty Wishful Yo Glow Enzyme Scrub
A decent face exfoliator doesn't have to cost the earth. Wishful's fruit enzyme scrub is formulated with AHA, BHA and Cellulose exfoliants to gently buff away dull and dead skin cells whilst papaya and pineapple extracts leave your complexion brighter than ever.
SkinCeuitcals Glycolic Renewal Cleanser - £42.31
A cleanser is a great way to introduce acid exfoliators into your skincare routine if you’re on the cautious side. This cleanser gently starts to foam when massaged in with water which then works to eradicate any pesky blemishes to leave skin clear and silky smooth, without that tight-feeling dryness.
Oskia Liquid Mask Lactic Acid Micro Peel - £68
This exfoliator contains 10% lactic acid and a bunch of antioxidants to leave you with a radiant looking complexion. Apply before you snooze and this will work overnight to get rid of any unwanted skin bumpiness and leave you looking more hydrated too.
Murad Age Reform AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser - £39
This brilliant exfoliator marries both AHAs and BHAs (namely glycolic, salicylic and lactic acids - perfect for obliterating spots and bumps) with jojoba beads to make light work of chipping away at flaky, dead skin, oil and blemishes. It's perfect for prepping skin for luxe serums and moisturisers.
REN Glycol Lactic Radiance Renewal Mask - £36
Not only does this smell of oranges (not the point but an added bonus) but the powerful mix of AHA’s such as glycolic, citric, lactic and tartaric acid means any flakiness disappears in a matter of minutes and you’re left with healthy, gleaming skin.
Who said exfoliators leave your skin feeling dry and tight? Clearly, they hadn't treated themselves to a DIY facial with La Mer's oil exfoliator aka the finest sugar scrub formulated to leave your face feeling seriously soft. Let the crystals buff away dead skin whilst the legendary Miracle Broth brings a major dose of hydration to the table.
Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant - £31
For those that are blemish prone, which of course leads to redness that needs to be addressed too, Paula Choice's 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant will address all your skincare woes. Formulated with salicylic acid, this powerful liquid works to minimise the appearance of pores and unclog them, to leave you with happier looking skin.
Dr Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Ultra Gentle Daily Peel - £89
A favourite amongst beauty editors alike, Dr Dennis Gross is the king of ‘lunchtime peels’: all the glowy skin without any of the redness downtime. We challenge you to not notice an immediate difference after one swipe of these peel pads and the handy 2-step packet makes them ideal for travel or in case of any urgent exfoliator emergencies (they happen).
Elemis Dynamic Resurfacing Facial Pads - £40
A lazy girls solution for exfoliating, these pads are pre-soaked with pro-biotics and lactic acid to easily swipe away any dead skin cells, without irritating skin. The gentle exfoliation will stimulate the skin’s surface renewal cycle to brighten and boost radiance. Ticks all our boxes
Zelens PHA+ Bio-Peel Resurfacing Facial Pads - £70
From wrinkles, to crater-sized pores, these pads can aid in all of your anti-ageing skincare worries. Packed with AHA’s and BHA’s, these swipe away any uneven skin texture, without leaving skin sensitive and red.
Peter Thomas Roth Pumpkin Enzyme Mask - £50
A cult classic for a reason, apply this mask for a few minutes and watch the magic happen. Skin will tingle but afterwards you’ll be left with instantly brighter, glowier skin. Ideal for when skin either isn’t behaving or just looking a bit meh, this will give it an instant boost.
Caudalie Deep Cleansing Exfoliator - £21
Grapefruit, mint and sweet orange give your daily exfoliation a refreshing twist, while natural micro-grains (derived from corn) offer physical exfoliation to leave skin smooth and clear of impurities. And with 97% natural ingredients, this is one for the earth lovers out there.
Kiehl's Clearly Corrective Brightening & Exfoliating Daily Cleanser - £29
Formulated with the natural exfoliant pearlstone, this clear gel gently scrubs off dead skin cells whilst drawing out oil and dirt from your skin. Ideal for any city dwellers feeling the effects of the smog.
Shiseido WASO Soft + Cushy Polisher - £29.51
Forget rough, scratchy scrubs, this super fine exfoliator uses micro granules to slough away old skin cells, and sebum-absorbing powder to remove impurities. Those with dry or sensitive skin, this is a once a week situation to treat yo'self to, rather than a daily scrub.
Medik8 Pore Refining Scrub Dual-Action Exfoliator - £29
Medik8's Pore Refining Scrub delivers a three-pronged attack on rough and oily skin. It boasts gentle, biodegradable jojoba particles to really slough away that paste-like mixture of sebum, dead cells and make-up, Salicylic acid, which reduces inflammation, pigmentation and redness caused by acne, and L-Mandelic acid, an AHA that deeply penetrates the pores to exfoliate even further. A pea-sized amount goes a really long way.
Pai Virtuous Circle Kukui And Jojoba Bead Eco-Bead Exfoliator - £29
Skin-friendly jojoba seeds are suspended in a hydrating gel texture to instantly lift away dry, flaky patches without scratching, so it won't leave you red raw. The added vitamin E in the 100% natural, vegan formula makes skin feel seriously soft and moisturised - even after one go.
Gallinée La Culture Face Mask & Scrub - £23
There's a good reason why Gallinee's mask-come-scrub is always selling out. The brand's skin-perfecting duo of prebiotics and probiotics (they can speed up cell repair, protect against environmental aggressors and even treat acne) are combined with powerful AHA, lactic acid, which works wonders to smooth skin texture and to de-congest pores. Flawless complexion? Yes please.
