Spring - just saying the word is enough to remind us that we won't have to deal with numb hands, chapped lips and dry cheeks for too long, and that brighter mornings and warmer temperatures are right around the corner.
But what if we were to tell you that with those longer days and an abundance of pretty blooms follows a whole host of skin problems?
According to WGSN, data presented by Estée Lauder Companies at the Annual Meeting of the Society for Investigative Dermatology, showed that pollen (the fine powdery substance emitted from flowers during germination - biology lesson over) makes up a significant amount of particulate pollution, and has been demonstrated to be damaging to the skin.
Yep, you read that correctly. Similar to the radiance-sapping, pigmentation-producing effects of pollution like car emissions, smoke, chemicals and UV, pollen also has the ability to deliver an attack on cells, which means it isn't just a runny nose, itchy eyes and constant sneezing we have to contend with.
So what exactly are we dealing with and how can we stop it?
Gareth Cattermole/BFC//Getty Images
How Does Pollen Affect Your Skin?
1) Pollen Can 'Inhibit Collagen Production'
'Scientists used to believe that pollen only affected the skin as a secondary reaction to the primary allergic response already occurring in the nose, mouth, airways and lungs. However, it is now known that pollen has a direct effect on the skin; even entering the skin itself though its hair follicles', explains Dr Charlene DeHaven, M.D. Clinical Director iS Clinical.
One of the major ways it affects the skin is by restricting collagen production. In short, collagen is the protein that gives skin its strength and elasticity, and without it, skin tends to look slack, deflated and peppered with fine lines and wrinkles - not cool.
How To Stop It
Before you think about shutting yourself in doors this spring, consider that Estée Lauder also concluded that antioxidants, such as vitamin C, are effective in shielding against the skin-ravaging effects of pollen. And according to dermatologists, vitamin C is pretty much essential for collagen synthesis.
Vitamin C Serums — 11 Of The Best For Your Brightest Skin Ever
Our winning serum ticked every box, with the majority of panellists noticing a visible improvement in skin tone and enjoying brighter, more radiant complexions. The longer term results were equally impressive, helping combat pigmentation, scarring and wrinkles over the four-week period — all without any reports of irritation or sensitivity.
FYI: the recommended dosage is a sizeable full dropper, so you might want to stock up to ensure you’re never without your new-found skincare saviour.
This multi-target serum had our testers hooked from the first application; the lightweight formula absorbed quickly, revealing healthy, glowing skin. Following the test, our whole panel reported firmer skin, while others praised the plumping effect which helped mitigate against the appearance of wrinkles.
They were big fans of the pump bottle, too, which ensured an even, clean and quick dispense every time. Exactly what we’re after in our skincare routine on a time short weekday morning.
Best for sensitive skin
Kiehls Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate 12.5% Vitamin C
Introducing a new product to your regimen can be scary if you suffer with sensitivity, but this left our panellists feeling plump and hydrated, with no cases of flare-ups or irritation reported. A little product goes a long way and they liked that it layers well with other products (such as moisturiser and make-up) without the risk of pilling. After the trial, fine wrinkles appeared reduced, and they were excited to see the longer term results.
An absolute bargain of a vitamin C serum, The Inkey List rivalled pricier serums on test, with our testers praising the easy pump applicator and how quickly the product absorbed into their skin. Formulated with a highly stable form of vitamin C, this serum delivers a potent hit of antioxidants, while the techy Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) promotes collagen production. Plumper, brighter skin for under £20? Yes please.
If you’re suffering from dull, uneven skin after the last long, cold winter, then this is the product for you. The ultra-concentrated formula is rich in skin-brightening actives (such as red clover extract, mullein extract and a Swiss Alpine blend) which, together with a highly stable vitamin C derivative, left our testers’ skin looking dewy, radiant and ready for summer.
Our panellists loved the milky texture of this vitamin c serum, which ‘melted’ quickly into the skin, while a boost of hyaluronic acid ensured lasting hydration, leaving their skin glowy and vibrant all day long (even after a 9-5 suffering office AC). After the trial, most testers reported that they’d be adding this to their skincare routine permanently. Impressive stuff.
Easy to apply directly or mix into your daily moisturiser, our testers loved the ability to adapt the dosage to their needs. Formulated with a 15% stabilised concentration of vitamin C alongside ferulic acid and peptides that smooth and brighten, Paula’s Choice offered a pep-up shot for their skin, leaving it firmer, brighter and more even over the trial period.
Best for uneven skin
Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Brightening Treatment with Ferment² + Vitamin C
Many vitamin C products come and go, but Estèe Lauder's brightening treatment has enjoyed a cult following for years — and rightly so. Our lab analysis proved it effective in reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation (including dark spots, sun spots, age spots and acne marks) over the four-week period, leaving all skin types on test brighter, smoother and more hydrated.
Combining the anti-ageing and antioxidant properties of vitamin C with the exfoliating properties of glycolic acid for maximum absorption, our panel praised how quickly this Murad serum got to work on their skin, with most testers noticing an immediate improvement in skin texture. The lightweight formula left their skin hydrated without any sticky residue, making it easy to incorporate into a morning beauty regime.
And although it's what's on the inside that counts… let’s be honest, Murad’s high-end packaging makes it all the more pleasing to have on your vanity table.
Enriched with rose petal extracts, this concentrated vitamin C serum left skin replenished, hydrated and smelling incredible (as is the way with so many of our must-have Aesop products). The glass pipette is a dream to dispense and apply — especially when followed by an enriching facial moisturiser — and testers loved the semi-matte finish for oil-prone skin.
The Ole Henriksen Banana Bright serum combines vitamin C, exfoliating acids and banana powder-inspired pigments to instantly brighten and plump the skin, while hydrating with hyaluronic acid — a notorious moisture magnet.
This serum delivered a sensorial experience many of our testers loved with its punchy citrus scent, though some found it overpowering. Most of our panel noticed an instant added lustre and said their skin was looking brighter after just a few uses.
Ben A. Pruchnie//Getty Images
2) Pollen Can 'Damage The Skin's Barrier Function'
If the skin's barrier function is weakened, skin tends to become dry, itchy and irritated - and that's the last thing you need after a winter of exactly the same problems, right?
To counteract the damage, it pays to look out for ingredients that are going to re-build the skin's barrier. The ones that derms rave about? Ceramides. Our skin actually produces ceramides (basically oils) naturally, but thanks to an onslaught of things like pollution, and now pollen, the levels take a bit of a dip, and therefore need replenishing.
How To Stop It
'Look for moisturisers with a “shielding” effect, enriched with some amount of dimethicone, cyclomethicone and other occlusive silicones, which can help stop pollen like a shield', explains Dermatologist Dr Tiina Meder.
Alternatively, 'if you prefer organic products, look for creams and moisturisers based on natural oils with a prevalence of saturated fatty acids, such as avocado seed oil, shea butter, jojoba oil, meadowfoam oil.'
However, there are a few ingredients out there to avoid as they can make the condition worst. Dr Meder advises 'be careful with coconut oil however, as this oil is comedogenic and can cause breakouts in oily skin. Avoid essential oils, flower water and flower extracts, as all these perfectly natural ingredients can accumulate with pollen proteins and worsen the skin condition'.
3) Pollen Can 'Lead To An Inflammatory Response' On The Skin
We're not just talking puffy eyes, here.
Inflammation can present itself as a rash, itchy areas and redness and is also a result of skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis and rosacea.
'People with sensitive or sensitised skin are most vulnerable to pollen irritation, however, anyone with oily or acne prone skin isn’t necessarily immune. The enlarged pores and inflammation associated with oilier skin types allows the pollen proteins to penetrate into the skin through follicles and open sebaceous glands', explains Dr Meder.
How To Stop It
Meder advises that 'irrespective of your skin type or shade, the best advice is to treat skin gently, using products that will protect the skin from the direct effects of pollen, whilst also soothing the secondary consequences of respiratory exposure, such as of puffy eyes or a sore nose.'
The bad news is that you can't control the levels of pollen pollution in the air. The good news? You can totally safeguard your skin against them, and antioxidants like Resveratrol and Ferulic Acid are a great place to start.
And if you're already dealing with an eczema or atopic dermatitis flare up, it might be worth visiting a dermatologist or your GP for an anti-inflammatory treatment. Topical steroid creams are popular, but anti-inflammatory creams such as Elidel or Protopic (which are steroid-free) are just as effective in relieving redness, flaking and puffy patches.
These Hyaluronic Acid Serums Are Your Shortcut To Plumper Skin
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