catwalk S/S 2010
review
6 October 2009
Three years ago she abandoned fashion at the height of her success. Now Phoebe Philo is back, with the most eagerly anticipated show in Paris this season. After leaving Chloe in 2006 to raise a family, the London-based designer - who made her name working alongside Stella McCartney - returned to the catwalk on the same day as her former boss. Her debut for Celine saw editors queuing outside an old bank on the place Vendome, by the Ritz Hotel, before the venue’s doors even opened. Inside, a scrapbook waited on each seat, illustrating Philo’s artistic inspiration for the house: photographs by the likes of Helmut Newton and Juergen Teller, provocative and evocative black and white images. A frisson of excitement rippled through the packed room as the first model made an appearance - could Phoebe rediscover her winning formula? The answer was a resounding yes. For spring/summer 2010, her Celine collection focused on crisp, chic sportswear-influenced minimalism, stripped back and beautiful. In a palette of camel, beige, khaki, white and black, with a surprising shot of cobalt blue, this was a grown-up and powerful show. Leather T-shirts, A-line linen skirts, white silk blouses, military jackets and the return of that super-flattering sexy Chloe trouser - every piece resonated. And every piece will undoubtedly sell. Although Stella McCartney has soared to new heights, we still missed Phoebe Philo’s presence in the fashion industry. Welcome back!
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