catwalk S/S 2010
review
3 October 2009
There are few shows that can be called a fashion moment. Few shows that can move jaded journalists almost to tears. Few shows that can be hailed as the best of the new season when that season is still only being offered up to press and buyers. But for spring/summer 2010, Alber Elbaz produced a collection of such astonishing beauty that it’s hard to see how it could be surpassed. In a bleak warehouse on an industrial estate in the wrong side of Paris, the designer conjured up some kind of magic. It started, as it always does, with a parade of girls in Lanvin’s signature black dresses – asymmetric, one puffy shoulder accessorised with one matching glove, complete with frills and ruffles. The dresses became a kind of tuxedo, a pleated one-shoulder jumpsuit, a tailored jacket with a fluid draped skirt. So far, business as usual. But then starbursts of colour began to appear - nude, blush pink, cerise, red. And then came the embellishment – an elaborate gold necklace studded with precious stones, a bejewelled snake-shaped gold belt, a scattering of gold sequins spreading into patterns. And then all these things combined into a series of unforgettable pieces, progressively more ornate, building to a climax of glamour that brought the audience to its feet. A truly beautiful show, in every sense. Bravo!
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