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catwalk S/S 2010

Rodarte

Rodarte-RS10-4419
PHOTO BY iMAXTREE
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review

by Avril Mair

16 September 2009

'It's always so theatrical!' exclaimed an excited Eliijah Wood, waiting to take his front row seat at Rodarte's spring/summer 2010 catwalk show. And surely any show that lists a special effects credit, alongside the more usual thanks to models and stylists, is worth anticipating. Designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy out did themselves for Spring 2010 with an incredible post-apocalyptic fantasy that built on past collections but literally took their talent to a whole new place. As dry ice poured through the venue - an art gallery in New York's Meatpacking district, which had its floor covered in a messy layer of black sand. Models began to stalk between the rows of chairs, decorated with dreadlocks, tribal body paint and black lips. Like eco-punk warriors, they were dressed in rough hand-dyed fabrics, twisted plaids, plaited leathers and shredded knits. Long woven strands trailed behind them. There were kilts, wrapped with leather straps and fierce zipped bondage pants, but the show became progressively more theatrical as it went on. Beading, feathers and jewels began to decorate each piece, even as the shapes themselves became more deconstructed. By the end, everything was black, dramatic and draped to the floor: long dresses that looked as though they'd been pieced together from the remnants of past season's collections. For the finale, three girls walked out and stood, staring at the photographers in a move that combined both beauty and aggression. It was, as Elijah anticipated, a fashion moment.

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