Charlotte Rampling and her 'sophisticated, effortless, sometimes androgynous' style were the starting point for a collection that felt classic but not overtly '60s (save for one unironic orange suede jacket and the occasional nod to flower power via a recurring muted floral print).It was packed with staples that keep Daks at the forefront of luxury tailoring - wide-legged grey trousers in heathered flannel, long-sleeved wool dresses with a zip detail here, a cutaway back there - as well as moments of innovation, like the knitted, cropped vests that saw models with their hands in pockets just under the bust.Neat styling touches included tailored shorts that fell to the knee paired with long, flat leather boots and a cacaphony of differently proportioned checked pieces that worked thanks to a unified palette. As we've seen elsewhere this season, necklines erred on the side of high. Bags were boxy and ladylike, while heels came with rounded toes tipped with an elegant touch of metal.The collection is the fourth for Daks by former Donna Karan and Halston creative Sheila McKain-Waid, and is she ever in her stride. There was lots here to please the traditionalists, and plenty to tempt in future ones, too. That's not an easy balance to strike. Here, it looks positively effortless.