Catwalk

David Koma

Last season David Koma was hanging out with lots of tennis stars in his off-time, which inspired his fresh and feisty spring collection. This season, the Georgian designer was mainly lurking around at home listening to records - Tchaikovsky, to be precise - but the resulting collection for AW13 was no less of a feist-fest.

The vinyl inspiration was literal. No sign of the romantic lyricism of Tchaikovsky himself; instead a vision of actual vinyls: orbs of padded nappa leather warped into peplums, collars, and the designer’s much-loved flouncy hem. It was familiar, yes: the body-con silhouette, the fit-and-flare mini-dresses. But was it a broken record? Far from it.

Koma aimed to go outside of his own body-con box by exploring the youthquake of the Sixties and the free-swinging silhouettes of that era. He didn’t stray far (he knows not to bite off the party-girl hand that feeds him), but he found a new kind of looseness by developing his outerwear. The black slick of the leather vinyl here was curved into shawl collars and drawn around the body rather than bound to it, and a biker-boxiness was just the right counterpoint to his ultra-girl skater hems.

Courreges it was not, but if that’s how Koma sees the Sixties, we’ll take it. Because within his own vocabulary, Koma excels: he simply makes a damn hot dress. So power-mesh panels revealed just the right flashes of skin, pin-tuck pleats in a nude dress highlighted the hourglass shape expertly, and an off-shoulder neckline made for a whole new erogenous zone in a laser-cut patent leather Little Black Dress.

These vinyl dresses are made for playing, and with front-row devotees such as the preposterously pretty Pixie Lott and Mollie King dying to give them a whirl, they’ll make for very sweet music indeed.

Loading...