Designer A-Z

3.1 Phillip Lim

Autumn/Winter 2012

By Jim Shi

Neo-noir comics like “V for Vendetta,” along with the idea that not everything is ever as it seems, were the basis for Phillip Lim’s stimulating 41-look show.

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Exploring concepts of mapping and panelling, the coats played optical tricks—in most cases, two mirroring silhouettes sliced to make the wearer look slimmer. Lim’s designs delve into that optical theme, from a jumpsuit with a trompe l’oeil bustier to the graphic black and white cable knits—a strong point in the show.

The bookish aesthetic was undeniably charming: tapered trousers, fitted blazers and Lim’s signature comfort knits. Jackets were cleverly constructed to look like two-layered garments. As for the twisted knitwear (some with sleeves and trains), let’s reserve that for weekends at home.