We want to join Phillip Lim's new season girl gang.

Sonomama—is that Italian? Could he be talking about his mother? Theories and queries about Phillip Lim’s winged logo whizzed around the audience before the designer’s show on Monday afternoon.

Turns out, it’s a new-season mantra.

‘It’s Japanese for “As you are. Don’t ever change. Don’t move an inch”’, Lim said backstage.

That headstrong pride was evident in his pack of girl bikers, ready to ride where they want, when they want, no room for killjoys.

Lim’s rebel spirit roared forth in leather sweatshirts with hip zips, in metallic knit motorcycle jackets, and in leather patches on everything. A hairy angora sweater with a kilty yet tough leather skirt confirmed this silhouette as a NYFW trend.

Terrific coats—from the pink embossed neoprene overcoat of the opening look, to a deep teal wool parka, to a merlot and navy plaid jacket with a navy shearling collar—had the crowd leaning forward in its seats. (The most emphatic of three pages of notes about this show is ‘COATS!!!’) Wheat-stalk prints on silk dresses and vaguely Southwestern jacquard trousers added to the ‘road trip on Route 66’ feel.

‘I’m a sucker for gangs,’ Lim said. ‘I always believe you must stand for something and you must have a point of view. Every collection, there’s a tribe or gang element, of belonging.’

The patchwork denim racer suit of the finale signalled that belonging loud and literally, with its patchwork of custom 3.1 Phillip Lim badges. If these make it to retail, all the lucky numbers, initials, and wings could be fast bestsellers for DIYers eager to stitch on a bit of 3.1 Phillip Lim. Something tells us that would be just fine with the designer—there’s room in this gang for everyone.

 
 
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