Monastic meets sexy with architectural precision

Antonio Berardi takes his lead from modern architect Oscar Niemeyer and the civic buildings he created for Brasilia in the ‘60s for a thoughtful, sculptural offering for autumn/winter 2013.

'She's sexy, yes, but also a little bit monastic,' he told ELLE of the new-season Berardi woman backstage. ‘It’s about the idea of austerity.’

The hourglass shape that marks out a Berardi classic is there but now, it comes overlaid with origami folds, like a recurring panel down the back of jackets and dresses that came initially stitched in, then trailing loose from the body, and ultimately becoming a grand train that made a simple shell top into a magnificent finale.

Hair was sleek and eyes clean, with a strong red lip adding the only colour, to underline the message of modernity. Even the palette was Niemeyer-led, with the rich reds and forest greens reflective of the inside his buildings and adding a ‘slightly Baroque’ flavour.

‘I looked that the pieces like cityscapes,’ says Berardi. ‘They were like a grid, and then we ate away at them, made parts fade. And whichever way the wearer turns there is something new – an embellishment, a new silhouette.’

And what of those standout angular sleeves, jutting out to a point from the elbow?

‘They’re tapered at the shoulder and then that shape is the fin that you see in [Niemeyer’s] buildings,’ he explained. ‘I liked idea of that flourish.’

So beautifully is it realised that there’s no doubting his customer will, too.

 
 
YOU MIGHT LIKE

MORE ON CATWALK


Facebook Logo Twitter Logo Instagram Logo Pinterest Logo Youtube Logo Google Plus Logo