Designer A-Z

Balmain

Autumn/Winter 2011

By Emma Sells

Under the direction of Christophe Decarnin, Balmain has riffed on a distinct sartorial signature - sleek, rock chick style embellished with as much glitz as a girl can carry.

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For autumn all the hallmarks of this tried and tested style are there, but they've been diluted with just a hint of less is more. Perhaps it's the influence of newly-recruited creative consultant, stylist and Helmut Lang alum Melanie Ward, who's aesthetic leans towards the minimalist.

With a few deviations the colour scheme centred on black and gold, and there were plenty of bold sequinned jackets (with neatly tailored shoulders - gone are the bold silhouettes of seasons gone by), and bedazzled mini dresses to keep the die-hard fans happy. But for those of a less bling-orientated persuasion there were some great skinny, tailored pieces - slim-fitting suits, simple sleeveless jacket s and white trousers. We'll probably be leaving the plunging, skin-tight jumpsuit to Freja Beha Erichsen though.