Designer A-Z

Belstaff

Autumn/Winter 2012

SHOW SCHEDULES

By Laura Weir

Belstaff has been through some turbulent changes over the past year...

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The Italian leather goods label has new owners (Labelux – the same firm behind Jimmy Choo) and a new creative chief, but it hasn’t unsteadied the brand one bit.

In fact it has done the opposite. The new Belstaff chief creative officer is Martin Cooper who spent 16 years designing at Burberry, and he possesses the traits that one would expect to see from a Burberry alumni - and he has brought them to Belstaff.
A rigorous attention to detail, a regimented commitment to branding, and of course a sense of luxury, could all be seen in spades at the first Belsaff London presentation.

The label is known for its biker jacket heritage, but did you know it was British? Its past presence on the Milan schedule has led many to believe it was an Italian label.

But by coming home, and showcasing the label during London Fashion Week, the new owners have begun to build upon the brand’s British heritage.

There were the label’s traditional leather Roadmaster jackets and long-line bikers on show, but the women’s coats were rendered in racing green leather and had a tailored rather than rugged aesthetic. There was plenty of texture too from croc, to shearling and suede and the women’s oversized tote bags also deserve a mention.

Overall the collection felt clean and modern and this was a confident London fashion debut for the brand, we look forward to seeing what they trump it with next season.