Great expectations? Phoebe Philo’s had a few... And none greater than for her third collection for Celine; spring summer 2011.
Her fresh take on minimalism for autumn winter 2010 became the global mood of the season. So enchanted was the press and public with her working woman aesthetic that her stripped-back bags, gold block heels and lace tunics have become the see and be-seen-in items of fashion week. At yesterday’s show – at a guesstimate – 60% of the audience proudly wore their Celine rite of passage pieces. The “what’s she going to do next?” topic has been a talking point for months.
Philo played it casual, cool and like the consummate pro, not to be drawn from her streamlined silhouette. Her signature extended lapel collar coats remained, this time sleeveless, in white and worn with sweeping trousers. There were drop shoulders on boxy tunics, apron halter tops and cream leather long-sleeved tops. A clinical feel clung to the starchy shirtdress and hooded tabards but there was understated-sexy too in the form of deep V jumpsuits and cape sleeved shirts.
We also saw a welcome round of colour; cornflower blue granddad-collar shirts were worn with burgundy leather skirts, green and blue flag print stripes were drawn down trousers and across square tees.
A collection to satisfy the fan base and persuade the anti-minimalists.