Designer A-Z

Chanel

Autumn/Winter 2011

By Carrie Gorman

The Chanel invitation suggested a burnt-out woodland scene, the venue confirmed that a volcano had singed the very embers of Karl Lagerfeld's autumn winter world.

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After the iceberg collection last year , this - the second in an apparent series on ecological disasters - focussed on smoking wasteland with molten rubble littering the floor. There is relief for the hundreds of attendees struggling to balance on the rocky terrain in Chanel heels; next season, Karl decrees the flat workman boot to be King.

Despite the scene of apocalyptic doom, Chanel's collection was a breathe of fresh air. Boucle, lace and leather panelled boiler suits, shrunken tweed jackets over blazers, boyish tailored trousers and long woollen capes gave a tough re-working of the house style to remind you that this label can be worn in a multitude of ways.

The hard edge was still inherently pretty. Everything was beautifully delicate from the masculine suit trousers rolled up to reveal a satin lining to beaded jumpsuits and leaf-print gauze tunics. This collection satisfied its die-hard fans (of course) but also recruited others inspired by its ability to refresh and renew.