Designer A-Z

Christopher Kane

Spring/Summer 2010

By Avril Mair

Even in this London Fashion Week 25th anniversary season, even with big brands returning to show again in the city, Christopher Kane is the name on everybody’s lips.

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With his Topshop collaboration selling out fast – and his riveted jersey T-shirts and gorilla print dresses making front row appearances all over town – there was a palpable sense of anticipation about his spring/summer 2010 collection. You could call it excitement, even – the young designer is London’s fashion superstar right now. But could he possibly build on a/w2009’s defining vision? Well, yes. With Donatella Versace looking on - he works on her Versus line – and to a gospel soundtrack, Christopher Kane turned good girls bad. Backstage, he name checked the novel Lolita, cult American religion and ‘Nancy Reagan on the lawn of the White House’ as references, and there was a sense of subversion running through the show. A kind of Sunday Best quality infused his pretty puffed-sleeve gingham dresses in pink, chocolate and navy – but their careful, complicated construction, bra-style contouring and glimpses of nude chiffon underskirts or see-through panelling gently subverted the sweetness. Elaborate rose-beaded embroidery, cut-out cashmere knitwear and one stand-out boyish suit in navy were other highlights. So how can Christopher Kane top this? It’s safe to say that the sky’s the limit.