Designer A-Z

Doo Ri

Autumn/Winter 2012

By Jim Shi

Doo-Ri Chung once again chose exquisite draping for a graceful and elegant autumn winter 2012 collection at New York fashion week.

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Doo-Ri Chung once again chose exquisite draping for a graceful and elegant autumn winter 2012 collection at New York fashion week.

One needn’t look at Doo-Ri Chung’s show notes to immediately realise the influence of modern dance in her Autumn Winter collection. The Korean-American designer cited Butoh as an inspiration—and the idea of motion in time. There was, as she put it, an elegant haunting movement that was poetic at the same time. Chung’s models wore their hair pulled into slicked-back buns, better to showcase the exquisite jersey draping she has always been known for. A graceful slouch of an oversized virgin wool sweater, the elegant ease with which her parachute silk cocktail dresses draped—it all made sense and was intellectual to boot. Both textural and tactile, the fabric had a liquidity that rolled off the body like raindrops. For a layering effect, Chung included shearling outerwear that featured bonded leather detailing.