For autumn/winter 2013 Emilio de la Morena, we were told pre-show, ‘drops last season’s pretty in favour of a considerably more sombre disposition’.
A considerably ominous introduction, one might suggest, to a collection that, while not pretty-pretty, contained plenty of beauty.
This was a more grown-up offering than we’ve seen hitherto from Emilio, with a big focus on tailoring and sleek separates - a pair of swooshy, tomato red trousers, a cropped leather jacket with puffed-out sleeves and a tailored, boiled-wool onesie all constituting ‘wow, that’s new’ moments.
A cohesive element was panelling, like a cross hatch, that was worked into jackets that became armour-like in proportion, and felted vests, and the skirts of cocktail dresses with elegant silk tops. This was tempered by a hexagonal print that came in in sludgy 70s shades of rust, grey, chocolate and mustard. For evening, the silhouette was slashed away, so dresses streamed out behind the body and naked slivers of flesh were revealed by peekaboo cutouts on top.
The concept of the collection was a return to the de la Morena roots, Emilio going back to ‘sculptural construction and geometry; working with woven grids and panels pieced together in a kaleidoscopic craze’.
While it was lacking the kind of energy that might suggest, the precision was there - as were certain aforementioned pieces it’s difficult to stop thinking about.