'The Pucci girl is freshly covered up this season' said Peter Dundas backstage of the usually less (fabric) is more (fabulous) label.
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'There's a mix of menswear elements, strange as that may seem, playing with proportions, also more lean silhouettes but slashing in to them to find my girl back'.
His girl, the Pucci girl, is seductive, rich, promiscuous. Dundas refers to her 'Belle du Jour spirit' which we'll take as Catherine Deneuve's Severine Serezy over Billie Piper's Brooke Magnanti. Of course Belle du Jour spends her days as a prostitute while her husband is at work and that subversion is as clear as a thong through a sheer dress in Ms P. The phrase fur coat and no knickers could have been created just for this woman.
Sound a bit risqué? It is and, oddly, it isn't. This mix of menswear Dundas was talking about broadens the label's appeal ten fold. Those who would normally enjoy these clothes from afar, admiring brand champion Anna Dello Russo in them, will find something for themselves this season. Patent leather trenches, a boxy peacoat and houndstooth jacket are cut beautifully. Underneath them the fun starts. Everything from chiffon veiled jumpsuits, devore spray-on gowns and halter dresses are slashed to ribbons, nipple to bottom. Rich embroidery and jet beading scattered across blouses, there was even a Fair Isle sweater made of jewels. Now that's fabulous. Plus a Dundas bride to finish - she wears a white lightening slashed gown with a white mink duffel FYI.
All this visual eye-candy on a model line-up featuring every big name girl of the moment. Lily, Jourdan, Natasha, Anja, Lindsay... 'I'm very picky about my girls' said Dundas, the Beau du Jour.
