Fragile, light and breezy clothes
Giorgio Armani called his collection ‘Water Lilies’ and based it on ‘stretches of calm or rippling water that reflect shadows of plants, flowers and clouds’. It was all pale, misty colours as if seen through a chiffon-covered lens. He hit his stride with his beloved boy-girl looks comprising voluminous glazed-cotton trousers which he teamed with short sharp shantung silk jackets or looser more boyishly tailored jackets in blue or green cotton. These looked fresh enough and hit the sporty vibe with flat T-bar patent sandals.
Armani showed a vast collection – a total of 94 looks – but this was not for lack of commitment; he offered myriad options to appeal to every Armani Woman out there. These encompassed smart grey jackets with capacious black trousers, narrow white buttonless jackets with huge white trousers, and black suits, again with massive trousers. The trouser message was loud and clear, repeated once more towards the end of the show with fine pale printed vests. They also came as narrow as second-skin leggings that were intended to ‘cover the skin like a tattoo’.
Dresses also came in multiple variations - in slippery satins with tiered layers, exposing one shoulder or both, belted, plunging, wrapped across the bust, layered with filmy chiffon, or bound across the chest in stark black that looked a little severe against the soft barely there prints.
In terms of fragile, light, breezy clothes – the big story so far at the shows - Giorgio Armani’s Emporio Armani collection was in tune with the season’s broader fashion picture, even if these clothes played more safe and gave less of an urban edge than in previous seasons. But as Armani himself might say: ‘My customer is my critic’.