From Korea to London with inspiration from Russia

Could ‘Folk’ be the first big trend of London Fashion Week? Let’s hope so if it looks as good as it did at Eudon Choi.

The designer had been looking at Russian folk costumes and folk art. His film reference this season? David Lean’s Dr Zhivago, of course. ‘Julie Christie as Lara was my muse for this collection,’ he said. He even sent models out to the upbeat twangs of She’Koyokh, a Russian folk band.

If this all sounds literal, it was less so in the way it was executed. Sure he opened with a billowing sleeved peasant blouse, there were plenty of gathered-at-the-waist midi skirts and models wore flowers in their hair or floral headscarves and fur pom-poms on their heels, but that was the styling.

Look at the clothes and you’ll find signature Choi. His leather pieces remain some of the most desirable and wearable in London – one grey double breasted hip-length jacket, a longer black pea-jacket and oxblood wide-leg trousers looked just right for now.

He had also mastered knitwear – jumpers slit up the side in bold pink or Prussian blue were a fine addition as were some of the smart spare coats in boucle wool.

Choi is good at taking a theme and making it his own – not going overboard but showing restraint. He had been working with Swarovski and their Crystal Rocks – so when his ‘red magma’ hued crystal leaves climbed up stiff striped cotton dresses they not only nailed his romantic folk story and nodded at fashion’s current love of special one-offs, they also seemed utterly Eudon Choi too.

 
 
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