Designer A-Z

Gucci

Autumn/Winter 2011

SHOW SCHEDULES

By Carrie Gorman

"This is a contemporary female dandy" said Frida Giannini about Gucci's autumn winter 2011 collection.

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Entranced by performances from Florence Welch and photographer Bob Richardson's pictures of Angelica Huston here was Frida does 70s - the Gucci way; high glamour, attitude and sex appeal without falling down that hackneyed Studio 54 path and achieved by fusing with it a 40s silhouette.

Fur was prevalent and coloured fur at that. Daywear featured khaki 3/4 length dresses, sheer pussy-bow blouses, fine rust leather shirt dresses and knee-length culottes. But it was the dresses that really captured the crowd's attention.

Flowing ethereal gowns in rich colours of emerald, red and yellow wafted down the catwalk in numerous guises. Some with cut-outs between draped chiffon, some polka dot, others slashed to the thigh. All were diaphanous revealing 50s black full knickers underneath. Boleros and neckline details were made from floral corsage. Feminine as these dresses were, they were de-prettified by black patent over the knee boots for a Helmut Newton fetish feel. A brilliant start to the Milan shows.