The Gucci girl has had a change of heart.
Although designer Frida Giannini has successfully softened and feminised the brand’s image since the glory days of Tom Ford, for spring/summer 2010 she proposed a hard-edged body-conscious collection that started out chic and sporty but ended with seriously seductive intent. It was modern and focused, impressive with its detail and craft, as desirable as the customer who will wear it. Stretched taut over curves, sculpted close to the body, these were clothes that boldly asserted their confidence. The show opened with a kind of glamorous athleticism: all white, a stretch top slashed open, high-waisted leggings inset with sports mesh, a nylon jacket shrunk to fit, towering leather sandals bound round the ankles with silver clips. Rubber piping overloaded with silver hardware – a recurring motif throughout – laced across backs and down legs. Moving through shades of grey, introducing a killer new knee-high boot with cut-outs in a soft dove colour, throwing in ikat prints in orange and brown or blue and black, the look became gradually harder, fabrics darker. Tight dresses were crossed with straps, silver hardware making elaborate embellishment on necklines and waists, or recreating the earlier prints. When Natasha Poly strode out in a second-skin cut-out dress that glistened under the weight of metallic and crystal beading, the point had been made. Next season’s Gucci girl is the hottest thing in town.