Jean Paul Gaultier at his most fabulously flamboyant

There were supermodels. There were aging rocker toupées. There was a grand old music hall and a Crazy Horse style silhouette tableau. It was Jean Paul Gaultier at his most fabulously flamboyant.

They were ‘Rocker Women’, caught somewhere in between late 1970’s New York underbelly, and Paris cabaret at it sexiest. You could tell Karlie Kloss was in that tableau the moment the red lights lit up the silhouettes – her dancer’s body contorted into a dramatic twist behind the screen. She emerged wearing Gaultier’s signature corseted, bullet-boobed warrior look, in smooth hard leather with a floating chiffon skirt billowing behind her. 

Each wearing a curious tuft of hair on the tops of their heads they powered out like born-again supermodels of the golden age, swishing long pleated silk skirts and pouting for the cameras. In a clever visual trickery Lindsey Wixson emerged wearing a silk dress printed with the grid pattern of the show's background tableau. 

It might have been that red light model display, it might have been the hair or the patchwork fur pimp coats, but there was definitely a sleazy element to the whole collection. The little fur shrugs slipping off the shoulders, Jessica Stam's printed boudoir overcoat, the structured leather. But it being Gaultier, it was done with the most humorous of light touches, and anyway, fashion loves a bit of sleaze every so often.

 
 
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