Mean, moody and very assured

Jena.Theo introduced us to their autumn/winter 2013 collection thus: ‘The girls stood in a group, wearing bright lipstick and the blank, wary expressions of half bright souls turned mean and nervous from too much bitter wisdom in too few years.’

That’s Hunter S Thompson, for the uninitiated.

The models were presented to us that way, en masse - they emerged, one by one, in front of a printed screen in Somerset House’s Portico Rooms, bright lipstick in situ and mean stare affixed, almost daring us to look at their clothes.

In reality, it was rather difficult not to. Jackets hung off the body in ten-sizes-too-big nonchalance. Skirts that looked demure from the front became risque from behind, with the hemline swooping up as the model turned. The iconic Smiley logo was reworked for an oversized black sweater dress, melting into long, gold foil drips down the model’s front, and deconstructed yet further into a ‘burnt-out, ruined’ floral print that was a recurring motif on dresses and loose-fitting separates - a highlight of the collection.

Should you meet this girl on the street, here’s a tip: don’t mess. She is very sure of herself.



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