Just Cavalli gets a cool clean makeover for spring

It was refreshing to see the usual flamboyance of Roberto Cavalli’s second line, Just Cavalli, tempered this season without losing any of its exuberance. There was a new stripped-back, energised, haute-street feel.

He started with blocks of clean white – a beaded hip-length leather biker jacket, a sparkling t-shirt or flippy tennis-pleat skirt – and interspersed those with washed-out florals, bleached-distressed denim, cheetah, or crisp blue neo-classical prints.

A well-edited mixture of silhouettes – structured and soft – meant that Cavalli could play with his house strengths. Firm-shouldered little bomber jackets or longer lean jackets gave the structure, while his beautiful scarf prints, in whirls of sunflower and navy tie-dye and animal prints covering floaty dresses with trailing wispy hems gave a light, fresh feel.

Gone was the overtly sexualised or the searingly tight – ok, so there were short, second-skin dresses (sparkling and colour-drenched in print) but they looked sporty not slutty. And where there was transparency, strategically placed prints covered breasts while diaphanous skirts were cut with scooped-out opaque panels that covered the knickerline.

Cool, in the form of sparkling sequinned sweatshirts and tasteful, in the restrained use of naked flesh, made for a rejuvenated Just Cavalli collection.

 
 
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