With French maids in saucy uniforms dusting down the steps at the Louis Vuitton show, huge black PVC balloons bobbing overhead and a cage in the centre of the square black lacquer catwalk, the fetish theme of Marc Jacobs's autumn winter 2011 show was as clear as the perspex macs that followed.
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Those cages turned out to be three elevators from which night porters emerged and stood guard outside, watching the witching hour at play. Each elevator brought up a new dominatrix from the bowels of Hotel Vuitton clad in patent leather jackets, sheer skirts exposing suspenders and bottom-revealing cashmere onesies with stick-on Peter Pan collars.
The model line-up was like a Who's Who from the industry's last 10 years. Naomi in a cashmere-backed sweater and fake fur skirt, Amber Valetta, Carolyn Murphy and Maria Carla handcuffed to their handbags.
But for all its overt sexualisation, this was a fabulously fun and beautiful collection, cementing trends that we have witnessed throughout the month of fashion week shows. Blazers and coats had the stiff, round-shoulders we now identify as next season's style. Pailettes dropped from a-line skirts worn with cute cashmere sweaters, skirt lengths were below the knee. Accessories (bar the handcuffs) will play a big part on wish lists to come, especially the patent, PVC-like platform boots and Lock-it bags.
It was a fabulous show that not only perked up the audience no end at 10am, it brought micro-trends to life and gave us a vision for the season to come. With Kate Moss striding out smoking a post-coital fag in a rubberised lace jacket, it signalled the end of the affair. And now we are spent.
