For autumn Martin Margiela took as his starting point a wardrobe staple: the dress.
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He riffed on a classic shape, playing with it and turning it into outerwear until it became anything but basic.
His models, who walked slowly down the catwalk, were traced by a spotlight. Their clothes had the appearance of falling apart – zips around waists and along side seams were undone so that panels were peeled back and folded over to reveal contrasting fabrics underneath. So the side of a red coat unveiled a red patent skirt below, a camel coloured coat gave a glimpse of matching trousers and a leather jacket hit a delicate floral print beneath.
There were other pieces aside from the coats too, a long stiff skirt paired with a long sleeved sweater, a velvet jacket and skirt and some beautiful draped gowns. It was, as you can always rely on Margiela to be, compelling and technically marvellous. And, as you can't always guarantee from the designer, wearable and covetable too.
