Oddball eveningwear meets super-modern glamour at Maison Martin Margiela
At the Hotel Salomon de Rothschild, one of the grander show venues in Paris, the original wooden floors and windows had been entirely covered in plastic sheeting, which provoked one member of the audience to comment on Twitter that it was like being in a large plastic carrier bag.
Such oddballness was more refined where the clothes were concerned. Aside from the opening dresses, whose rear-view slits hobbled their wearers, some strange huge T-shirt dresses that stood away from the body as if cardboard lay beneath them, and giant trapeze shaped floor-sweeping dresses with ‘built-in’ Latex gloves, the collection was practically, well, practical. Not to mention glamorous.
This season, the Maison, the studio team who designs the collection, took to the classics, with particular attention paid to the neck and shoulders, often left bare. Strapless cocktail dresses, gowns, and palazzo pant suits, all had a distinct dressy, eveningwear feel to them and because the silhouettes were so elongated – everything reached the floor or at the very shortest covered the shins – it all looked super-elegant.
But for the finale it was back to the Maison’s brilliant oddness with those voluminous finale dresses that flowed outwards from the tips of the shoulders in transparent white, purple, the faintest pink and green. Modern, glamorous, and, naturally, cut from nylon.