Set to the anger of Public Image Ltd.’s “Order of Death” song, the Marc by Marc Jacobs show had the models walking with stealth speed, in military-like fashion, down the catwalk.

A little edgy and a little angry, yes, but there was also a subversively chic nature to the silhouettes, which figured predominantly loose—as witnessed by the oversized bell skirts that hit below the knee, Shetland fur coats worn with combat boots and toggle coats paired with gold lurex dresses.

It was, essentially, a return to grunge—with the volume turned way, way up. As much as the clothes made a very specific statement, the accessories were universally appealing. Tall drum hats in assorted colours really hammered home the military vibe while bold black glasses offered a nostalgic take on it all. Was it a commentary on youth culture? There appeared to be hints of a watered-down notion of what Jacobs had expressed in his main collection the previous night. Tough love—or luxe—anyone?

 
 
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