Designer A-Z

Marc Jacobs

Spring/Summer 2010

By Avril Mair

With Madonna and Jesus sitting front row, and Lady Gaga watching from the wings, Marc Jacobs had to show something pretty spectacular to eclipse his own audience.

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That he did was testament to the designer’s powerful imagination and continuing ability to challenge and surprise. ‘I just had fun!’ he said simply, of his spring/summer 2010 OTT Japanese-inspired techno-romantic fantasy. Francois Nars, who did the kabuki-style make-up, claimed backstage that the theme was ‘destroyed ballerina’, and this collection was both theatrical and uninhibited, while losing none of its femininity and, ultimately, sweetness. More was definitely more: bras over knits, corsets over jackets, everything over sheer leggings with layers of ruffles and frills spilling over pinstripe shoulders and flouncing down metallic lame sleeves. Everything was ruched, embroidered or brocaded. Pearls embellished handkerchief hem dresses and sequins covered lattice-work suits, while feet were in kitten-heel wooden sandals and hair was in severe topknots fasted with scrunchies. But there was also tailoring, influenced by both conceptual Japanese designers and classic American sportswear. There was a great military jacket, a shrunken belted raincoat, a trim little cotton blazer. But what the guests left remembering was the sparkly eveningwear, the lingerie detailing and the frothy lace ruffs and the whole joyful mash-up of unexpected styles and shapes. What to expect when Marc Jacobs turns his talents to Louis Vuitton in Paris in two weeks’ time? We can’t wait to find out.