With his spring summer 2013 show, Marc Jacobs made the 60s swing once more.
The stage set was a row of mirrored doors, which opened one by one to let models walk out. And when they did, they were all wearing the same thing: stripes. Well, they almost all were. But the overwhelming impression from this collection was of '60s-inspired monochrome geometry and a boldly focused vision.
It was over in just five minutes. But those five minutes were filled with the kind of clothes that remain in your head for a very long time.
'That’s it! That’s me!' exclaimed Alexa Chung, wearing a floor-length gold spotted Marc Jacobs dress and a shorter leopardprint coat to sit in the front row. 'I am such a sucker for a stripe and so I just loved it.' Beside her, Kelly Osbourne agreed: 'It was his best collection in years. This was everything.'
With their mussed-up side ponytails, bold brows and messy eyeliner, the models – including Brit girl of the moment Cara Delevingne, who was cheered loudly by Alexa – were styled to look like Edie Sedgwick, the Andy Warhol superstar and '60s It Girl, who Marc Jacobs claimed afterwards as his muse for the season.
Despite this, it wasn’t retro. This was '60s modernism with an emphasis on modern: mostly separates, no trousers, but rather smart little matchy-matchy outfits of coat and dress or skirt and jacket, often with a coordinating bag and shoes. Sometimes there was just a tunic top, paired with knickers and heels. There were a lot of long sleeves, falling hemlines and ruffled necklines. These were, in short, proper clothes worn with a lot of attitude and a little rock’n’roll.
And in case you were wondering what the designer himself was wearing, Marc took his bow in a suit. A man’s suit. Plus white patent pointy ankle boots with a two-inch heel.