Marios Schwab looked back into the shadows with his A/W ’12 collection.
The designer hewed closely to last season’s chiaroscuro-concerned show, warming to his femme fatale theme with infusions of colour, treated lace and a smattering of sparkle.
To an orchestral version of ‘Eleanor Rigby’, he presented wool dresses with leather crescent details on the bust, skirts with music-note-esque embroidery and nipped-waist suits. Transparency remained key. The darts radiating from the necklines of emerald and amethyst silk chiffon blouses became design features, casting shadows and emphasising workmanship all at once.
Where spring’s shadow play had Schwab reaching for the mesh, this time he added floral lace to the mix. Fabric treatments gave his specially woven lace a latex-like sheen that was more S&M than ladylike at heart. Philip Treacy’s elegant hats underlined the film noir spirit. Anyone longing for cloches to return to the scene after spotting them in The Artist is in luck—Schwab made that wish come true with his fetching caps.
A handful of finale gowns featured intricate sequin and crystal embellishment that hugged the torso. At first glance, the peacock-like designs looked like bodysuits, but in fact the patterns had been carefully appliquéd to nude slips, which were then overlaid with sheer black, purple or teal silk chiffon layers.
With that level of riveting detail, a starlet wearing one of the gowns to the upcoming Academy Awards might get away without the press corps noticing the Vans on her feet—something that will make recent Schwab acolyte Kristen Stewart very happy indeed.