The military theme has been charging out since New York and is stamping its feet here in Milan. Not least at Moschino, where the toy soldiers were out in force.
The cavalry drum roll announced a parade of tailored coats bedecked with gold buttons, epaulettes and patch pockets in black, white, red and purple (the latter, rapidly becoming the shade du jour). They were princess coats – short, neat, belted under the bust - the type that have long been seen on young princesses on parade.
And then came all the usual Moschino signatures: the natty monochrome suits with gold chain belts, the cropped biker jacket – one of which bore a golden studded love heart on the back – the little black dress, and the essential Moschino headgear. This season it was a cross between a Stetson and a Canadian cavalry hat, tied like a nun’s wimple around the throat with a heavy black band. Sadly, no chicken this time – as sported by Coco Rocha at the last autumn/winter show.
Indeed it was far less bonkers than usual. Okay, so the cerise satin/marabou/ruffled dresses at the end were delightfully on-brand, as was the purple cape and marabou bonnet, but this was a tamer, safer show from Rossella Jardini, who consistently meets her brief: to keep the Franco Moschino legacy alive.