This season, for the first time since Alberta Ferretti founded Philosophy in 1994, there’s a new name on the marquee: Natalie Ratabesi.
Ferretti handpicked the Central Saint Martins-trained designer to ‘give Philosophy a more independent and autonomous vision’ in October 2012. After today’s show, it’s clear the brand couldn’t be in the hands of a more capable successor.
Ratabesi looked to the fashion-infallible ‘50s for a series of full-skirted silhouettes. Sweet, serene dresses and princess-seamed coats were good enough, but what made this collection interesting were the details. Like the narrow chiffon bands inset into the yoke of a red jumper, and the windows of chiffon lightening the poet sleeves on an otherwise simple cream dress—pure, airy romance.
Okay, it wasn’t always totally cohesive—a disco fairisle knit and an awkwardly proportioned apron jumper (long in the front and short in the back, a reverse of the NYFW high-low hem trend) come to mind. There was enough in there, though, that we’re eager to see where Ratabesi takes the brand next.