Back on the London stage, Preen delivers a masterclass in patchworked minimalism
Celebrating their 15 years in business, Preen returned to London this season with one of their most accomplished collections to date.
It was the culmination of everything they had learned since showing in New York – concise, polished, desirable clothes, that well-balanced mix of pulse-racing fashion with real wearability that has become their trademark.
Their inspiration, said Justin Thornton after the show, was the film Buffalo 66, starring Vincent Gallo and Christina Ricci. ‘So it was the toughness of his snakeskin boots and her sweet femininity that we tried to capture,’ he explained.
‘We wanted it to look layered, but feel minimal, sexy and chic, with a focus on separates,’ added Thea Bregazzi, who was due to give birth to her second child last week. ‘It’s fine,’ she said, ‘I can go and have my baby now!’
They opened with bold navy and white snakeskin prints in loose wafting t-shirts and floaty or graphic wrap skirts. As the prints became more complex – patchworked with coloured snake, sleek foil fabric and neon yellow strips – the shapes became easier, like the carefree Cara Delevingne dress. Then came the burst of pink roses, mixed through with python print, and back to minimalist navy and white, with slices of silver, for a bold ending.
Preen’s return to London only cements the capital’s reputation as a venue, not just for fledgling talent, but a new establishment.